Rain in Normandy, Sunshine in Brittany and Hot at Home

June 2025: 

First day of June and the last day of the twinning visit. Another moving day.  We set off in the bus for Ver sur Mer to the British Memorial site overlooking Gold Beach where the British came ashore and died on D Day.  

The memorial begins with stone tablets that give an overview of the D-Day landings, then leads into a large open pavilion. At the centre is a tomb of the unknown soldier, surrounded by a pergola-like structure made up of stone pillars. Each pillar is inscribed with the names of the fallen, organised by the date they died, along with their rank and age.

   

 Known as "Standing with Giants", the adjacent field is covered with 1,754 x 2m silhouettes of soldiers, as far as the eye can see.IEach silhouette represents an actual casualty of the landing, creating a particularly emotional and moving experience. Two other ‘giants’ represent the only two women on the Memorial, nurses Sisters Evershed and Field, who died while saving 75 men from a sinking hospital ship.

The bases of the stillages used to transport the silhouettes are decorated with a total of 22,442 knitted poppies, made by the Women's Institute (WI), representing the total number of fallen service personnel on D-Day and the Battle of Normandy combined.

2.6.25: Time to Wave Goodbye and Move On 

The bus set off for the village and I went to Caen to take the train to Le Havre, which was 50 minutes late due to a child having been reported to be on the line. 

Jojo met me where we fell into our usual routine of an overnight, scallops, some shopping, lunch out, a beer on a terrace near her flat and a walk to the sea. This time I discovered the Parc St Roch with its pond and waterfowl.

3.6.25: Another Bed in Another Part of Town: 

Valérie's turn to host me with the added bonus of her having taken some time from work. A couple of days with a mix of Relaxation and Chat with a visit to Maureen and Maxym's new house and night's in watching Department Q on Netflix 

 

 

Culture with a visit to the Musée Malraux for an exhibition of posters relating to the Transatlantic Cruise Lines. Nostalgia at it's best that you could almost imagine yourself in a Ginger Rogers and Fred Astair film! 

 

Normandy Countryside with a day out in Beuvron en Auge, a picturesque village with timbered buildings, craft shops and several restaurants. Had lunch at the "La Forge" and visited the (uninteresting) church in the pourring rain. 

 

Afterwards as the rain eased we went up to the viewpoint and a nearby small church a few km from the village.

Stopped off in Pont Levêque' where the very tasty , soft cheese comes from, to stretch our legs before Valérie dropped me off at cousins Kathy & Sylvain's. Should have been at Sylvie and Christophe's along with Irene and Alain but as he had been taken into hospital for heart surgery plan B kicked into action. didn't get to See Cousin Janine and Yves as they were off in Turkey for a grandson's wedding.Nice evening; cooking and serving done to perfection by Sylvain.

7.6.25: No Surprise that Normandy is very Green!

It was raining  when the other Valérie came to pick me up to take me on to the next leg of the visit and it continued to rain all day. So once in the house, we stayed there.

8.6.25:

 Took a Sunday morning walk en family with Léonie and Zoë joining us. 

After lunch  it was a trip to a circus festival in a verdant park.

 

In the evening the family expanded to 14 of us for dinner at the "Puits Fleuri".

9.6.25: Pastures New

The day dawned for a new adventure. Stéphanie in her little Audi whisked me off to St Malo. Missed out on lunch and when we'd puffed our way up the narrow, steep stairs to the top of the building we found the freezer had defrosted and there was rottten food to deal with. duty done, we alked down to the beach for a beer and then on for cider and crêpes.

10.6.25: Staying Local

Morning coffee, a visit to the market and discovered the boutiques, bookshops, Delis, wine merchants and bistros along the main street. What a pleasure to have access to independent shops rather than chain stores and charity outlets. Such charm is becoming rare.

  

 

After lunch at home we strolled into St Malo, which despite it's austere architecture was  every bit as charming not having fallen prey to tacky tourism. Had dinner at home and watched "Anatomy of a chute"  

 

 

11. 6.25: Took the ferry to Dinard with its Orson Wells connection and had a good walk around. Lunch was long and slow at the "Cartagena" owned by a friend of Léo's whonoffered us a glass of wine to go with the spritz royal and the bottle of wine that we'd already had.

 

 There was a full strawberry moon this evening but it was too cloudy to see. Watched "Sulemain" and it wasn't an easy watch either.

12.6.25:

Went out and walked the Pointe de Guerin 

and then went into Cancale 

and found the maison des épices. Last evening in St Sevran so we went out for dinner at "La Bourriche".

13.6.25: Paris Bound

For once I didn't go in search of any exhibitions; after a busy few days  I spent my time pottering, walking locally, a trip around the market, along the canal, took pleasure in dropping into oriental shops to look for spices, and catching up with the family. There was a visit to Nolwenn in her new flat for an apéro then I saw her again when we went to where she works for Sunday brunch. Elsa joined us so I caught up with her news, too. 

That just left Léo to see so it was over to Butte aux Cailles. Streets were busy with a vide grenier but we luckily we still found space at a café before we needed to head home and Léo needed to prepare for work in the evening.

16.6.25:

Was able to take it easy as my train home wasn't until the afternoon. Journey went fine even though it was hard going what with the heat and my case. Thankfully there were some helping hands when I was confronted with steps up and down. Jac C was at the station to meet me and in no time at all I was at home and enjoying the last episode of Dept Q. Yes, it was that good and anyway, it was too late to do anything that needed any kind of effort.

 

Rest of June:

 

Oh dear, my plants didn't fare well in my absence. Amazing how the weeds manage to survive though. Soon got back into the usual round of coffees, apéros and meals; there was even a dinner chez moi, which took me all day to prepare, with Mark and Trevor.

 

18th Dinner chez Jacques 

 

  

  

 

 

21st: Fête de la Musique   

 

  

22nd: Lunch in the Shade 

 

23rd Dinner with Joëlle 

 

So happens that the 23rd is the Feux de St Jean which involves torch light processions, bonfires and youngsters jumping over dying embers so our meal had an added extra.

 

 

Chez Frank & Penny 

 As the end of the month arrived the temperatures rose, hitting the high 30s. June's hottest was 39° while Patt and I were staying with Frank and Penny for the weekend. Any idea of doing sight seeing was hit on the head; too hot to be outside so we stayed in and the three of us talked and talked. One evening we were joined by Pauline so we were never short of topics of conversation.  Apart from meal times, when he was an attentive host, Frank wisely made himself scarce leaving us to range far and wide on subjects only of interest to women! 

 

Nature Notes:

Swallows in the Sky; Cherries, Strawberries and Aspargus in the Market

May 2025: A Whole Host of Public Holidays 

1.5.25: May Day Public Holiday

"Up the Workers Day!" on which it's traditional to give a sprig of lily-of-the-valley. Nowadays, it's more likely to be a virtual one. There was no trip to the market as the 1st is a holiday all through Europe; well that is except for UK where pragmatism makes it the nearest Monday. 

Still spent the day with Michel though. Coffee in Céret, an apéro at the village bar, a trip down to Banyuls for a walk and cuppa and finally an apéro dinatoire chez JJ.

2.5.25: 

Michel has friends Nicole & Daniel here for the weekend and I was included in all that was going on. Coffee at the market followed by an impromptu apéro at mine. I was on apéros again in the evening this time at Michel's; what's more I managed to come up with something different. Didn't stay for moules/frites; not my thing. 

4.5.25:

Sunday Nicole and Daniel had the pleasure of meeting more of Michel's friends; coffee and croissants at the café in the morning and then in the evening when Michel broke his "only six around the table rule" to seven to accommodate Jacques. A waterproof and wellies came into their own for the walk over. 

In between I had a long standing date to meet up with Ann & Terry and Viv and Pepe at the restaurant. The latter used to have a holiday home in the village but sold up just before covid. The meal was excellent as usual.

Tonight's sunset was a beauty

 5.5.25: 4 Musketeers

Coffee with Mark and his Dad (my late friend Maggie's son and husband), supermarket run with Nick and tea with Michel. He's on the go all the time either entertaining or being entertained to full on meals and it's beginning to show.

A great music night at the café with a real variety of music ending with Las Cuerdas (cords in Spanish), real favourites of mine.  

6.5.25:

An interesting session at the "oldies" group where there was a presentation about the work of "handi-chiens", an association that trains and provides  dogs for assisted living and emotional support in the judicial system. Needless to say, Uffi a beautiful black lab, stole the show. 

8.5.25: 

A public holiday for V.E. Day though Michel and I went to the market rather than going to the wreath laying at the War Memorial.

9.5.25:

 We've had some rain these last few days which has renewed the cap of snow on Canigou. Instead of doing our patriotic duty on V.E.Day yesterday by attending the usual wreath laying ceremony, a group of us dodged the showers in Figueres.

10.5.25:

Heavy rain all day, meant that Pierre's vernissage was very poorly attended. Shame as his pastels are technically well executed and very pleasing on the eye. As he's a neighbour and part of our social circle when he comes from Belgium, I braved the weather in solidarity. Much to my surprise, I didn't even have a glass of wine as compensation!   

10.5.25:

Went to the market with Michel and met up with Patrick for coffee; next an apéro with Michèle & Henri plus the Maire's parents, met a Jimi Hendrix fan on the bus home and went back again in the evening with JJ for an apéritif dinatoire chez Jean & Françoise who had  family staying. 

11.5.25 A Real Sunday Lunch

Roast pork, all the trimmings, a tasty cheese board and strawberry tiramisu with lashings of cream chez Joyce & Keith, from Yorkshire, who are really friends of Nicole's. During the course of the afternoon there was an almighty storm with large hailstones which meant that we stayed on longer until it was safe to drive. 

13.5.25:

Still having rain which provided inspiration for the oldies' group's attempts at Haiku which should include a nature or seasonal theme. Was more pleasing than I would have thought. 

Still on a nature theme, this was tonight's flower full moon

 15.5.25:

The usual Thursday in Figueres routine; coffee at the Centric bar where the waitress is keen to get Michel and I together, fruit and veg market shopping, apéro at the market bar with the staff turning a blind eye to our "picnic".

16.5.25: Yes, it's that time again

JJ came to help with my tax return or should I say returns; there are 3 forms to fill in. We went back and forth until we couldn't face any more and gave up!

 

18.5.25: 

 A relatively quiet couple of days but all changed today. 9 of us for the "Kaffeeklatsch" at the bar and then 14 of us on Jacques' rooftop terrace where there was a bbq to mark his and Pierre's birthdays this last week. There was an abundance of hats to protect from the sun, freshly picked cherries, loads of grilled meat to eat and plenty of wine and cava to drink. "All good pals and jolly good company!!" as they say.

19.5.25:

2nd attempt at the tax on Monday went ok after some advice from the helpline; well, that is until the very last part when a pop up window said there was a "anomaly". As we couldn't get any farther, we called it a day.

 

20.5.25:

 

 

Oldies chair yoga.

 

 

 

Dinner chez Jacques photo by Michel 

21.5.25:

 

3rd attempt at the tax return and as before, the way was tortuous; going round in circles, endless false starts and another call to the helpline. Apparently we'd been given the wrong advice the last time and newly equipped with the right information, we managed to get it done. At last!

Didn't have any lunch, just coffee and cheesecake at Michel's. Couldn't stay too long as there was an apéritif dinatoire to prepare for six of us this evening. 

Managed to be ready dead on the dot of 19h; Pierre arrived five minutes later. Much to my delight he brought me a framed, signed hand painted version of the poster. as usual, I'd done too much but the upside is there'll be a cooking free day tomorrow.

 

22.5.25:

 

Michel and I were joined on our trip to Figueres by JJ and Dali. The apéro was more elaborate than usual as it included a couple of sacher torte. still no word of sanction. Stopped off at Dali's on the way back and weren't able to leave until we'd had a drink and agreed to take away two tupperware boxes each of food. Made it to Nicole's on time for the knitting group which had more chat than knitting going on.

 

23.5.25:

A mammoth shopping trip to Figueres. Nicole and I both filled our bags and then our stomachs at 50 Voltes. Smart surroundings, tasty 3 course meal which included nibbles and a glass wine then surprise, surprise, a glass of cava was offered at the end. More shopping and tired feet later we headed for home well pleased with ourselves.

A call came from Michel just as I walked through the door than Michel phoned with an invitation for an apéro with Jacques & Suzette. Lo and behold, the fatigue disappeared as if by magic!

 

26.5.25:

A Corsican meal chez Florence & Patrick along with Michel last night and dinner at chez Jacques this evening. 

 

27.5.25:

Result of a pottery session at the over 65's group. Came a away with a Ferro Rocher holder. Was actually going to be a starfish . . what is happening to my life?

 

Just look at how pretty the flowers around the house were before I left for three weeks away. It was another story by the time I got back.

 

Weather:

Mainly in the mid 20's but as low as 18°, a day of heavy rain, a bit of thunder and one or two very short lived showers

 

28.5.25:

26 of us made an early start for our twinning trip up to Normandy. We were few and the bus was big so I had a double seat to myself, either to look at the scenery or the series that I'd downloaded on my phone. I my defence, I have done this route many times

 

Had an overnight stop in the Ibis Styles in Saumur on the Loire. Hotel was excellent but the meal in the restaurant next door was awful. The deal was 3 courses with a glass of either red or rosé and they were true to their word; bottles appeared on the table with a full sized bottle half filled. How mean is that?

29.5.25: Public Holiday for the Ascension

 

 

 

 It was a chilly start to the day but the excellent breakfast had set us up well. We chugged along the Loire for an hour giving us a view of the town from the river and then had just enough time to whizz into the Company's gift shop before we set off for another visit. Gave the shop it a miss in favour of  having a quick look around what seems to be a prosperous town.

 

Moved on to Pierre et Lumière at Sainte-Hilaire-Saint-Florian. Fabulous sculptures carved into the rock face from the Tuffeau stone. Monumental.

 Lunch came next at Les Caves de Marson in a nearby village. Large, pretty garden with the drinkng areas in the caves. Ate (without being counted) the speciality "fouées", small pitta-like breads that are wood oven baked and like pitta can be stuffed or otherwise. Ours featured rillettes.

Then it was back in the bus for the drive to Bretteville in time for an apéro. Agnès was fine but as usual juggling a load of balls in the air. Luckily, Bruno & Christine were doing dinner. ( Took them Vincens chocolate bars rum for Bruno, cherry for Christine). They were hosting Antonio and Sylvie, a very lively pair!

30.5.25:

 

Bliss! A free moning to relax and catch up.  Our hosts stayed local with a visit to La Ferme de Billy, dating from.1651, for an excellent brunch and a visit through the orchards to their production centre, a tasting and visit to the shop.

After the official gift giving, the evening Catalan meal was down to us; mostly prepared by José it comprised of sangria, wild boar pâté, black pudding and haricot beans, manchego +, bunyettes and cherries; washed down with wine, fizz all served by us. Not my idea of a "showcase" Catalan meal but who is a foreigner to offer an opinion. Luckily, we didn't have to provide the music as well. Gosh, for once I was in the mood for dancing as the song goes; Agnès, too. The musicians were forced to pack up around us.

31.5.25:

An early start for the "Longest Day" of the trip. Started with Omaha Beach at Saint-Laurent-sur-Mer, one of the American landing sites along with Utah. Nice and quiet before the crowds arrived. The site, due to its rugged topography, was highly defensible. Inevitably the vast expanse of sea, respectful visitors and all the monuments bring silence and a sense of reverence. 

«Les Braves» was as created by Anilore Banon to serve as a tribute to the "sons, husbands, and fathers" who sacrificed their lives for freedom. It stands 9 meters high, 15 meters wide, weighs 15 tonnes and consists of three elements:
* Wings of Hope: Symbolizes inspiration and the spirit of the soldiers 
* Rise, Freedom!: Represents the fight against tyranny
* Wings of Fraternity: Emphasises brotherhood and responsibility towards others as well as ourselves

"The Signal Monument" inscribed in French and in English reads, reads, “The Allied Forces landing on this shore which they call Omaha Beach liberate Europe – June 6 1944”.

The "Charles Shay Memorial" (no photo) Needs a special mention as he died in Bretteville, where he'd settled in his latter years aged 100. A member of the Penobscot Indian Nation, 19-year old Private Shay (Mohsskwehsosis, "Little Muskrat") was a combat medic from Indian Island, Maine. Soon after dawn, he came ashore near here as a member of an assault platoon. Repeatedly plunging into the treacherous sea, he carried critically wounded comrades to safety under heavy fire. For his unselfish heroism on this beach, he was awarded the Silver Star and he continued to save the wounded until the war ended. About 175 American Indians invaded Omaha Beach. Some were medics, others fought as seamen, scouts, snipers, radio operators, machine-gunners, artillery gunners, combat engineers or forward observers.

From here we moved farther along  the coast to the Pointe Du Hoc overlooking Omaha Beach. Led by Lieutenant Colonel James E. Rudder, the Second Ranger Battalion of Army Rangers was tasked with capturing German artillery at Pointe Du Hoc to ensure the safety of the troops landing on the beaches below. During the American assault of Omaha and Utah Beaches, these U.S. Army Rangers scaled the 100-foot cliffs and seized the German artillery pieces that could have fired on the American landing troops at Omaha and Utah beaches. At a high cost of life, they successfully fought against determined German counterattacks.

And so to lunch . . . before moving on for more history at the Colleville American Cemetery. 

Standing on top of the bluffs overlooking Omaha Beach at Colleville-sur-Mer. it extending to over 170 acres.

§ 9,387 burials and 1,557 names of those missing in action on the Wall of the Missing. There will have been other fallen soldiers whose bodies were repatriated to the U.S.

§ 9,238 crosses and 149 Star of David headstones 

§ There are graves of 304 unknown soldiers - marked with the inscription ’Here rests in honored glory a comrade in arms known but to God’

§ Three Medal of Honor recipients lie here

§ 45 sets of brothers are buried here including two sons of President Roosevelt - Theodore Roosevelt Jr (died July 1944) and Quentin Roosevelt (killed in WW1 and reburied next to his brother in 1955)

§ Brothers Preston and Robert Niland, the inspiration for the movie Saving Private Ryan, are buried next to each other too

§ The 22 foot statue is called the Spirit of American Youth Rising from the Waves 

§ The chapel ceiling contains 500,000 tiles in its mosaic (photo)
 

The professional guide we had, had given up a days work to escort us and share his wealth of knowledge. As many of his clients are anglophones from time to time a bit of English slipped into his commentaries.

Tonight we were waited upon by our hosts. Norman hospitality means copious meals and drink in abundance so some of us were beginning to flag. though flag we could not as we listened, some of us with more enthusiasm, than others to a piper without a drop of Scot's blood in his veins!

Weather: After a chilly morning in Saumur (16°) it was warmer (24°) at 19h; Next couple of days were in the mid 20's with high, white cloud