Saturday 30 September 2023

A Busy Fun Filled Time with Visitors

 September 2023

 
 September's featured travel destination brought back great memories of the trip Christian and I made in 1994 to Jordan. A trip that had lots of little extras made possible by having generous and kind local contacts. The Petra experience was unforgettable and the people that we met out and about were welcoming. One of the best trips ever. Eat your heart out, Indiana Jones!
 

After the quietest summer ever visitor-wise, September brought the promise of  the patter of not so tiny feet in the house. First came Jill after an absence of four years; it was such a pleasure giving her a fun filled time aided and abetted by good friends. Then hard on her heels Colin and Sheila came. The last time they were here was in 2015, so their visit was long overdue and therefore very welcome. 

As well as meals, coffees and trips to the bar for a glass of wine, the first part of the month brought a number of village events to attend.

  • New to the village social calendar was a Catalan day organised by the Mairie which included a choir, kids' games, sardanes, a few craft stalls, an apèretif offered by the Mairie, a guided visit in Catalan to the 12th century fresques, a Cargolade (bbq'd snails in their shells), correfocs (heavy duty bangers and whizz bangs let off to a lot of smoke and the throbbing of samba drums) and a disco. The bar laid on a traditional, no choice, over priced menu for 25€. 
  • A vernissage of Aboriginal style art by Lou from Perpignan.
  • Music at the bar, featuring Michel and Pierre.
  • A flyover by storks on their way south

Outwith the village, Michel and I went to Perpignan to see Eric, our artist friend, who had an exhibition of his paintings accompanied by his grandson's poetry. Lovely man that he is, he insisted on treating us to lunch from the next-door restaurant.

We also had a trip to Figueres market which brought as much pleasure as usual. However, our plan to have our lunchtime refreshment at the "Marfil" in La J. came to nought. It was full with seniors having a cheap lunch so home we went. We met up again later at his place for dinner starting with mojitos; Michel did the bbq, Anita brought dessert and I did the apéros.

And so the long awaited day of Jill's arrival dawned and JJ was good enough to provide the taxi service. Start as you mean to go on, I always say . . .  first thing on the agenda back home was a jug of Pimms on the terrace while dinner was a "here's - one - I - made - earlier spag bol". So, we were off to a good start which continued with plenty of sightseeing, good food and the always fun and interesting company of friends.

First off we went with Michel to meet up with David and Laura and their guests, Sue and William at Pollo Pollo in Empuriabrava. Chicken and chips in abundance. The others went home afterwards and we went to Port de la Selva and Garriguella. 

Ended the evening with tapas at the bar with JJ, Jean  and Françoise.

The next day Jacques was our chauffeur; the trip was mine. Escaules for the waterfall which still had some water flowing. Boadella with its ducks, the sanctuary with a view from 984', then St Llorenç de la Muga where we had a drink at the Concordia and lunch at Sa Muga in the square. Walked along the river where there were dragon flies, tadpoles, waterboat men and a frog. Came home via La Vajol for a warm welcome and a cold drink at Conxita's café/shop/restaurant and arrived home just as a good downpour started. Spent the night watching "Mrs Harris".

 What a treat for Jill; a trip to the laundromat, newly installed in the village, came next day. Have to say, it works well especially when you have a helping hand. In the afternoon we went around the outdoor expo and the one in the museum. She was quite taken by the Aboriginal style nail art. 

  In the evening it was around to Michel's for a mojito, food and music.


Out with Michel again: he really is a star. Back over the border. Coffee and a flit around the market in Figueres 

then down to Girona for and tradition, a walk on the ramparts through the Jewish quarter, 

passed some smart shops and others from the Modernist period, lunch at Casa Mariela, all wood and a look at the lion that since covid doesn't get his bum kissed! Don't ask! Another night without having to cook as Jacques did the honours.

A visit to the multisite Visa exhibition of photo journalism in Perpignan with Françoise. Most of the photos are were harrowing; climate crisis, poverty, war in Ukraine, cocaine production, displacement of people, women's situation in Iran and Afghanistan etc. The outdoor expo of wolves was a welcome relief.

The evening was spent far from the miseries of the world at JJ's tucking in to tapas.

A visit to Narbonne with Ken & Nicole and of course, Dora. Narbonne established by the Romans in 118 BC is about an hour's drive from here in the next county. Visited the museum, the indoor market voted the best in France last year, the 14th cathederal with its cloister and Archbishop's garden and had lunch in one of the many restaurants near the canal. Not an easy task getting a restaurant for a dog, enough shade that meets the right pretty complicated dietary requirements!

Finished the day at the bar with music and our faithful friends, Jacques and Michel.

 

Coffee and croissants at the bar; tail end of the little market in La Jonquera;  and of course lunch;  couldn't grumble at 9€ for a full plate. Had tea and crème caramel back at Michel's and after a short break, dinner at Jacques'.

Down the coast into Spain with Jean-Jacques and Dali for a walk passed the Greco-Roman ruins, lunch overlooking the sea while all the time trying to keep in the shade. Back in time for an all evening apéritif chez Dali where we were joined by Jacques.

A more relaxed day. Walk in the cool of the morning up to the waterfall without any water. Then over to Françoise and Jean's for lunch. Home on the bus. Pottered and watched two films glad not to be on the go.

Jill last day and we had rain in the morning. Worked well as it gave me a chance to prepare something for dinner for Colin and Sheila who arrive tomorrow evening. Not sure I'll be able to keep going in the food department albeit eating in or eating out! Started watching "Who is Erin Carter", a Netflix series set in Barcelona. In the evening we were invited to Michel's for a fondue thus satisfying Jill's craving for cheese!; she was in 7th heaven. A couple more episodes and in bed before midnight as an early start awaits us. What a great visit made so by the kindness and generosity of friends. They say what goes around comes around and it's especially true in Jill's case. She's a star!

21st September and it was time for the off. Lynn and Colin helped us out with an early lift to the airport. Saw Jill through security and was in good time for the bus back into town which would connect me with a direct bus home. Only problem was that the bus was late so I missed it which meant that I had to go via Céret. Still, I was home before lunch and as Thérèse was away, able to get Colin and Sheila's room ready. So on to the next . . . .

22nd Sept - 28th Sept: Well, Colin and Sheila arrived 24 hours later than expected with a wallet somewhat lighter as their plane was diverted to Montpellier thus an overnight stay was needed. On the plus side, they met some kind and helpful people and got to do a bit on sightseeing.

 Had a fairly relaxed start with a stroll around the village after a coffee at the café, a visit to see the Australian art at the museum 

and dinner here with JJ. By the time I'd cleared up, I was ready for bed.

Of course, there was some time spent away from the village. A jaunt up the valley to Prats de Mollo came first. Walked around the ramparts, visited the church and while Colin slogged up to the fort, Sheila and I settled for a cuppa in the square. There was no time to slack on our return, however, as there was a pork fillet to spread with sobrassade and wrap in smoky bacon, not to mention a Pimms and canapés to prepare. Feeling tired; head full and unstructured so unlike last night, I left my guests to the dishes and retreated to bed.


Mountains one day, the coast the next. Wandered through the streets of Banyuls away from the front in the hope of finding somewhere cheap and cheerful for lunch but time was rolling on and there was an end of season feel to the place. Ended back on the sea front where we had a generous salad then walked the length of the promenade taking in the sculptures along the way with Maillol and the sea very much in evidence.  


Then it was back up the coast until we reached Collioure where we spent the rest of the afternoon. Started with a bit of history at Antonio Machado’s grave (anti Franco poet who died in1939) after which we sent Colin off in search of photo opportunities. Sheila and I were happy to just wander. Met up at “The Templiers”, haunt of well known, now dead, artists for a drink and more history to recount. 

I can just imagine that you're thinking these few days are pretty light on eating out; well, fear not. Anita has organised a lunch for 12 of us up in Llauro. A good meal for 19€pp and the chance for Colin and Sheila to meet new people. Dali, JJ and Anita came back for cava and to ostensibly discuss tomorrow's farewell do for Michel. A few throws of darts, some dobbers and 2.5 bottles later we were left to out own devices and given that the café was closed, a quiet night in.

A slow start all round meant we didn't start out for our walk to the cascade until 11h45 and a late lunch meant that we didn't get to Céret on the bus until 15h. Sheila and I did a short, non photographic walk around the town, ending up in the France for a cuppa. Colin spent longer augmenting his photo count. This evening the tally stands at over 500 in 6 days. 

We weren't late, however, getting to Dali's for Michel's "cheerio" which was also fun way for Colin & Sheila to spend their last night here.

Endless bottles of cava, a generous spread, music from Jacques and Michel accompanied by antics from Dali. Went with JJ but left with Michel ready for a good sleep.

And so all things come to an end sooner or later. Packing was eventually done with just over an hour to spare so off we went to have a coffee. Sheila talked PWC with Jim and Colin talked running with Trevor until it was time for Colin and Sheila to collect, their cases and packed lunch and head off to Beziers airport for a hopefully trouble free return to Scotland. I had the luxury of flopping on the settee until it was time for the mandolin meeting followed by a curry dinner at David and Laura's for 8 of us.


What a treat! To my surprise I'd been invited to Evelyne and Gérard's 50th wedding anniversary lunch the next day at La Balette (Michelin ☆) in Collioure. Had to park a bit of a way away so the walk down the hill added to the anticipation and the walk back aided the digestion. The food was excellent, presentation was minimalist yet intricate; the view over the crystal clear blue sea gave the finishing touch. The 8 course menu consisted of:

1. Amuse Gueule

Gougère "Moderne"

*    Cargolade "Contemporaine" Escargot - Ail - persil

*      Moule juste pochée / Sirop de tomates / Vapore basilic

*      " Arête" croustillante au charbon végétal / Crème d'anchois de Collioure / Ficöide

*      Tartelette sablée u mille-fleurs n / Tarama d'œufs de poisson sauvage Terre vegkale

2. Aubergine de mer: Chamallow d'exsudat /Gel de Kabossu / Œufs de truite / Huile de curry

3. L'huitre "Petula" des Guinot /pomme / Chátaigne / Verveine / Beurre blanc au Yuzu vert

4. Maigre d'aqui / Patate douce / Haricot vert / peche Pave / Cacahuetes d'aqui / Bouillon de Muscat

5. Filet mignon de veau primneur / Topepo Rosso fardi / Oursin / Coque / Huitre végétale

6.  Mon lait fraise, "Souvenir de Colo" . ..

7. Figues d'ici en différentes textures / Écume relevé au poivre de Sichuan / Sorbet des feuilles

8. Petits Fours

*      Yuzu - Fromage blanc-Vanille

*      Madeleine aux agrumes

*      La tarte de l'arnitié, à la bière, naturellemnent

*      Nos confiseries "maison"

*      Rocher Agastache - chocolat

C Couldn't possibly translate; all you need to know is that it was a great experience and a lovely way to end a month that had brought so much pleasure.

    Weather: Varied from warm and sunny to hot and sunny with the occasional evening of overnight light showers. Water restrictions continue.

S September's Notes of Nature