Plenty of Sunshine, a Little Rain, Cooler Temperatures

 September 2022:

The bit's between my teeth. Having just caught up with the last three months, I'm going with the flow and making a start on September. The month started as hot as August but night is arriving noticably earlier and early mornings are cooler. There's less coming and going and visitor demographic has moved from families and grandparents with their grand children to second homeowners and retirees.

1st - 7th

Ist day of the month and my first dinner invitation. Another bbq around at Michel's  where I was the only female. A real Queen Bee moment with JJ, Jacques and Thierry joining Michel in attendance.

The next day I went off with Françoise for the annual "Visa for an Image" International photo journalism festival. With an early coffee stop to keep us going, we visited 13 exhibitions on 7 sites at a gallop . The exhibitions  were mostly of war, poverty and other misery so this wee selection is not representative.

Le douzième voyage de la goélette Tara. (Scientific studies in Antartica)

Pêches mondiales (Living by fishing: photos taken from a motorised paraglider)

Toute en retraite (discreet photos of people, rich and poor). No prizes for guessing which one is of Mme Mitterand in Mali.

As well as the photos, visitors get to see buildings that are not normally open to the general public. This is the garden of the "Maison de Catalinité" and was a welcome respite inbetween the more harrowing images our eyes had been taking in and before we went inside to see photos of animals under threat of being wiped out. But there's only so much that your feet and head can take so we called it a day and went for lunch at le Café de la Poste opposite the fancy restaurant, "Le Mess", (19th century Officers' Mess) now closed due to a serious fire last week. We were lucky to get a place as it was getting late and no concessions were being made regarding opening times despite all the visitors in town with money in their pockets. 

On the social side of life, I had a relaxing coffee  with Ann, which being out of the village, meant we could have a good catch up with out interruption as happened last time. There was also a no work apéritif in the square with crisps, chorizo and a few other bought in nibbles to eat. To drink we opened a couple bottles of cava and one of champagne to toast Camille's birthday that had been a couple of days previously. Other than that, I caught up with two months of Chitchat (time consuming), had a couple of sessions on the treadmill (hard going), watched "Kingsman" (amusing) and indulged my latest fad for sobrasada melted over burrata (scrummy).

Weather: 30° - 34°, occasional rumbles of thunder and a few drops of rain but not enough to get out of watering the plants.

8th - 15th

Well, there's only been one topic of conversation for days; the death of the Queen. Morning, noon and night; wall to wall; every which way. Economic problems and concerns rumble on but have been pushed off the agenda.Couldn't help but think that meeting Boris and Liz on the same day was just too much for E.R. What's more, I'm surprised how much coverage there has been in France and how many women have said that they admire the Queen and how wonderful she was despite avidly watching "The Crown" with its less sychophantic approach.

Closer to home, a shock came with the news that Danielle (an ex partner of Philippe, from whom we bought the house) with whom we'd remained friends, had died suddenly. She's at least 10 years younger than me and a councillor in a neighbouring village. 

I've been out and about though for more jolly reasons, too.

There was a  cancer support fund raiser where I struck lucky with two tombola wins in the short time I was there.. Won a used palette now hanging in the entry at the top of the stairs and a handbag size bottle of bacardi waiting in the cupboard for some cocktail inspiration.

Attended a vernissage of very colourful painings. Make of it what you will. My great neices found them pretty scary. The artist was a "live wire" full of chat who went around the room asking the women there to have a photo taken with him for his instagram page. Needless to say, my response was a negative one. Couldn't linger as David and Laura were due at Jacques' for dinner. I really should have a loyalty card as there was also a lunch at his and another dinner this time with Jim and Mags, still reeling from the loss of their daughter.

This week Jacques offered not just food but also a day out; where ever I wanted to go. Stopped off in Bascara, a small walled  town for a walk around and coffee. It was a friendly place, full of bric-à-brac; prices were friendly, too. Decided to head to La Bisbal for lunch though made a halt at Verges where there was a carboot sale. Didn't buy anything. Jacques had only bypassed La Bisbal, a town known for the industrial production of ceramics of all kinds. Had a good wander around and settled on "Taverna Flanagan" for lunch. Imagine; an Irish Bar serving Guinness and Murphy's, in a Catalan town run by a Chinese family! 

From here we finally we made it to Llafranc our goal by the sea. Did some more wandering and indulged in a crème catalan ice cream in a chocolate cone. Naughty but nice!   

Came home via Peretelada, a pretty medeival village, having a slight hold up on the way as police and fire officers were on the scene of an upturned car in a ditch. 

. . . and the eating out didn't end there. There was an impromptu invitation to join M & Mme le Général with two Brits for cava and tapas at the bar and a rendez-vous there with Nicole P and Mathilde for lunch.

Otherwise Oldies' gym started again, I psyched myself up to do a couple of sessions on the treadmill and of course watched a fair bit of tv. Weatherwise temperatures were 30° - 32° apart from one day when they descended to 29! There were also a couple of short evening rain showers that hardly wetted the soil. The week ended as it began with sad thoughts of  bereavements with Danielle's funeral where there was so many people that Yaneth, Jacques and I had to stand outside.

16th - 25th:

Sticking to my 6 at the table limit, I had Eric, and three Michel's (2 male and one female) for a curry dinner thus easing my conscience and providing me with food for several days to come.

After that it was a very Anglophone few days. Of course the world media has been wall to wall, every which way and here, there and everywhere coverage of  E.R.'s demise. There's been no escape even in the village with folk presenting their condolances and marvelling at all the events that made up the 10 days of mourning and of course, the funeral itself. Anyway back to the real world, there was  . . . 

• A catch up with Lynn , Ann and Dani which wasn't even enlivened by a glass of wine as we met at 17h30.
  

• A day out; yes another. This time with Lynne, (driver), Penny (navigator) and Jo (chatterbox) to Tossa de Mar. A first with this group and I didn't regret it.
  

Still plenty of tourists; lots of Brits and French so the little 'train', shops, cafés and restaurants were still functioning. Started with admiring the splendid moderniste 'Hotel Diana' where Christian and I had spent a couple of nights years ago; pity they've spoilt the front with a covered terrace. Greed before aesthetics, I suppose. Next a leisurely coffee looking over the sea. Enjoyed splendid views  on the  walk up to the lighthouse, while

learning the stories behind sculptures we passed. There's also one of Ava Gardener who had filmed in the town but as she was mobbed by all the tourists being photoed next to her, we gave her a miss. On the other hand, there was no such problem with the sculptures here. The lives of ordinary peole don't cut it, apparently.

Wending our way back down through the quaint narrow streets we stopped off for a good lunch at 'Santa Marthe'. Went back to the car through the town and while the others collected their swimming togs, I went and found a shady bench to read my book until they reappeared. Before hitting the road for home, we had a beach bar stop for a last refreshment. A cornetto for me. Well, it was a day at the seaside! Coming through the square on my way to the house, I stumbled across the neighbours (Camille, Geneviève, Jacques, Nicole, Celine then later Coralie, Maud and Rémi) having an apéritif. So, helped by a glass of rosé, it was back into French after a full day of English.

• Lunch at Sue and Harry's on their patio. Delicious stuffed aubergines cooked by Harry . It was interesting spending some time with them getting to know them better. 

• Supper at Nicole S's after which we watched "Downton Abbey" in English.

In theory, the walk with Françoise, Thérèse and Patricia should have been a chance for me to practise my French but they all wanted to practise their English for one reason or another!

As you can see, there has been some cork harvesting since the last time we passed by here.

Always a pleasure to walk through the grounds of the Retreat and there were only another 20 minutes to go until I could stop off at the café for a reviving cuppa.

• Last but not least, there was dinner at mine for friends (2 Brits and 2 Irish) who were owed a return of hospitality and Maggie's husband, also British. All went well and I was really pleased that I’d invited Trevor as he said he’d not talked as much since Maggie had died. By the time I’d cleared up and washed the glasses, I went to bed absolutely bushed! As I’ve said before, it’s hard entertaining on your own unless of course you’re called Jacques!

Talking of flying solo, I wonder why this stork spent the night in the tree opposite the house all alone. I guess the others were long gone.

. . . And we had a couple of days of much needed intermittant heavy rain. 

26th - 30th:

The week started with a gruelling oldies' gym session (mat work) that left me with aching muscles. Oh well, no pain, no gain, as they say. Although I slowed down, time still sped by. My days were peppered with late nights watching tv and with a number of meals with friends. First off Eric invited Jacques and I to join him at the restaurant up the mountains for dinner.  

 Didn't know Jacques could drive with such attention but there again it's a very windy road! Came across a pack (well, 5) gendarmes at the enty to the village on the way back, who were probably on the look out for clandestines or whatever. There was also dinner at Anna & Gérard's; they too, operate the six around the table rule and lo and behold they served duck breast, which you careful readers of Chitchat, will know is my favourite dish. Then at the end of the week, Françoise did a "farewell until next year" apéritif for her neighbours. 

I also entertained Jacques for lunch after a shopping trip to La Jonquera and JJ, Jean and Françoise for an apéritif dinatoire. Didn't bother taking any photos of these events as there was nothing different to interest you.

The best day of the week came on Friday. While Thérèse beavered in the house, I set off with JJ to collect David and Laura for another "thank you" day out. Once again we went over the border with St Llorenç de la Muga as our goal. First off, through Pont de Molins where we started to follow the river Muga along winding, verdant roads. 

We were so lucky that there had been plenty of rain the day before, as the waterfall in Escaules which falls 30m amid jutting cliffs and hidden caves, was in full force. In 1980, excavations uncovered polished stones and ceramics, as well as lithic industry artifacts of the lower-mid Palaeolithic, suggesting that the caves had been inhabited for more than 60,000 years.The woman in the café/bar alongside gave us a rather terse welcome as she put the kettle on to boil; not that it did, as the coffee arrived lukewarm. However she did thaw out and became almost jolly when she knew where she came from. She knows our policeman well. 

On we went and stopped off in Boadella for a walk around. Boadella is one of the oldest documented villages in Catalunya and like others along the river, there is eveidence of a previous milling tradition. Its centre borders the river Muga, has some river pebble paved streets and 18^th century houses with red and white undereaves that have designs to ward off evil spirits and witches.

Next came a short detour up to the sanctuary of  La Mare de Déu de la Salut at 300m. Had an aperitif on the terrace with superb views far and wide. Made it to our destination at the right time to head for  lunch. Went to the Hostal de l'Aigua, a long ago favourite of Christian and mine. Even spent an overnight there for my birthday one year. The food was as creative and tasty as it ever was.

A walk around the walled (+ 3 portcullises) village where there was plenty to see, was a welcome bit of exercise. Have to say that people over this side of the border could learn from the South Catalans about the preservation of their patrimony and the cleanliness of their villages.

Stopped for a coffee at the Café Sociedad (communal) in the main square after which we headed home by a more direct route.

Weather: For the most part it was sunny but temperatures dropped to the low 20's and we were finally rewarded with some heavy rain that left some snow on Canigou. 

While life ticked over here in a calm and some would say an indulgent way, the wider world faced turbulent times. Floods in Asia, hurricane Ian in the States, the continuing war in Ukraine, in UK the death of the Queen and the catastrophic arrival of Liz Truss as the new Primeminister with an outragous economic policy. Have neither time nor energy to sound off about it all here. "Carpe diem" while you can!

Comings and Goings; Eating and Drinking

 August 2022:

 Quite like old times; the house echoed to the sound of visitors  arriving and leaving, coming in and going out. There was family, family of friends and friends of friends. July's visitors were gone by the 5th which gave me a few days before I put up JJ's son, his wife and two of his grandchildren for an overnight.. A couple of days after they left, Hervé and Claudine, who is Lisa's other godmother, arrived for a couple of nights to mark the 1st anniversary of the civil naming ceremony. The day they left, Christophe and Valérie arrived. There were also even more meals and apéros than usual. Hardly a day went by without eating with friends.

 There were 4 birthdays this month. Mine which was celebrated with the family by a bit of sightseeing in Figueres and lunch at 9 Suprem, followed later by a head spinning mojito at Michel's and a bottle of cava when Martine called round with a present chez moi.  The card above from the neighbours just about sums it up . . .  "you know you're getting old when the candles cost more than the cake!"

 

 Jean, ever the cheeky one, saw the above and decided that the black cat was me and the rag - taggle band running behind are my knights in not so shining armour! Continuing the theme, the other black cat card was sent from his weekend away with Françoise

Jeanne celebrated hers at El Trull de Fransesc at Boadella over the border. Luckily, lunchtimes are long over there as due to traffic problems we were an hour late. Nice setting but the food was on the pricy side and it was full of French and other tourists. I knew there was a reason why Christian and I were never tempted to eat there; just as I knew there was a reason that I usually avoid outings with anglophones en masse. You'll just have to draw your own conclusions about that.

Nicole, my neighbour, celebrated hers on Gérard and Anna's rooftop terrace while Françoise had to wait for her birthday lunch until we went to the Visa exhibition in Perpignan at the beginning of September.

 

There were BBQs chez Michel, Dali and Izzy's.

 

Brunch (few takers for my bucks fizz), supper with 12 of us squeezed around the table and an apéro while Christophe and Valérie were staying with me, chez JJ. Apéros chez Jean and Françoise, again for Christophe and Valérie and chez Nancy to finish the contents of her fridge before she went back to the States.

Once the family were away, I did a bit of entertaining myself; for the Norman friends who come to the village every year for a week, for JJ's family and Jacques and Yaneth's friends, for Eric, Anita, Philippe and Michel and a lending a listening ear lunch for Nicole for which no photos are available.

And that wasn't all; there were other meals at friends (chez Jacques), restaurants in Empuriabrava, Céret and Figueres after a refreshing beer next to the market and apéros at the café, the details of which wouldn't add anything of note.

It wasn't all food though; there was some culture, too. Dali organised a group of us to go to her friend Dod's vernissage in Alenya. We were a multicultural lot, Colombian, French, Catalan, American, Algerian and British who started the evening with an apéritif chez Dali but by the time we got to a bite to eat at the end, Michel and C° had fallen by the wayside. Food and art; not a bad combination.

A trip to Argelès with Jean and Françoise brought coffee in a beach café , a walk along the prom and an outdoor photo exhibition. 

 Music figured, too. The café laid on several musical evenings. The best being one that included some songs sung by Samir in Kabil.

On the domestic front: Thérèse was unexpectedly absent just when I needed help with this month's guests , the plumber came to fix a problem in the bathroom, Michel wrote a stinking letter to my internet provider because of continued problems with a poor connection and an "all clear" dermotology check up. 

Watched Kenneth Branagh's sexualised version of "Death on the Nile". Agatha would be turning in her grave.

There was a sad moment too with Maggie's funeral which was well attended and included the "Sanctus" from the Misa Luba, a piece we shared a liking for. The sunset was taken from her garden.

 I can't finish this month round up without a word about the weather. It was relentlessly hot with at one point a heatwave alert. There were a few meagre drops of rain on a couple of occasions and on the 13th excitement rose as the skies opened. The excitement and the rain was short lived. So, no relief in sight this month.

First Wave of Holidaymakers

 July 2022

 

The start of the holidays is evident with the numbers of unknown faces on the terrace at the café. To keep them entertained the bar laid on a couple of concerts a week; on a larger scale, the Comité des Fêtes did their bit with a bar, meal and dancing at the recreation ground every weekend plus the Festa Major (annual village fête); the Mairie organised the 14th July celebrations which I missed out on prefering a trip over the border.

Needless to say, my activities revolved mostly around meals, apéritifs or coffees with friends especially as Nancy, a willing partner in crime, arrived from the States for six weeks. Rather than a blow by blow account just a selection of photos follows.  

 

                                        Dinner up in the Mountains

                                                 In La Jonquera

                               Lunch at the Restaurant in the Village

                                              Apéros at the Café

                                        Dinner Chez des Amis 

                                          Apéros Chez des Amis

                                                    Chez Moi

I, also found myself in the kitchen. Firstly, there was an apéritif dinatoire for 11 of us and then family arrived for a couple of weeks bringing a whole new set of household management skills into play . When we first moved here, the grandchildren were just wee; now they are coming with their partners! With six extra people coming and going, the house was lively but even though the time varied, the evening always started with a get together over apéritifs.

Moving away from eating and drinking, there were  two photo exhibitions. One, inside featuring the sky

and one outside in front of the Mairie on the theme of the village carnaval. Imagine my surprise to see myself in glorious technicolour!

Two sad events hit the British community within a couple of days of each other. The daughter of friends who were here in their holiday home, heard that their daughter who was living in Bali had unexpectedly died aged 38 and Maggie, a good friend to me, who founded the Association, died at home. One was expected, one was not; both were incredibly sad amid all the buzz of summer. 

The excessively hot, dry days (hitting 41° at one point) meant that I wasn't very energetic. The treadmill went by the wayside as my time was taken up with domestic matters. I did however, manage a couple of early morning walks with Valérie. 

 

I also started an weekly English conversation session with Lisa. For a 16 year old whose first language is Spanish and her second, French, she's very good. She's also introduced me to the Korean boy band BTS. Who'd have thought it! 

Didn't find time for the treadmill but did for the film "Downton Abbey 2" and the "Cane Field Killings" on the small screen. Well, I needed to occupy myself behind closed shutters.

Did manage to get out of the village though, before the traffic across the border becomes too snarled up. On the first day of the month, JJ and I picked up David and Laura for their first "thank you for having us in Scotland" day out. It's been over 10 years since I'd made the trip up to the Santuari de la Mare de Deu del Mont at 1057m. With a 360° panorama, it'still as spectacular as ever (if you ignore the communication antenna). 

 

The Sant Llorenç de Sous monestery on the way up has had some major restoration work done making it even more impressive. 

 

Zig-zagged our way down to Beuda where we stopped for a quick look at the restaurant and church. Had to keep a sharp look out fr the turning to take us to "El Claustre de Palera" the restaurant that I'd intended to go to. Found it ok but it was closed for a few days so back we went to the Restaurant Montserrat in Beuda. A cheap, cheerful, family run place which while not serving such sophisticated food as the other, was fine. 

I also had a couple of trips to the market in Figueres with Michel followed by a beer at the café  alongside it, followed by lunch at 9 Suprem. A pleasing ritual that I never pass up if I can help it.

And so July comes to an end with worries about the lack of rain, complaints about the rise in the cost of petrol (not as steep as in Uk) but little about energy costs. There's also less about Ukraine but some curiosity about the ousting of Boris and the ensuing Tory leadership contest. What we can be sure of, however, is that there are more very hot days to come.