On the Doorstep of Winter

November 2023. A month of unseasonally warm weather and a super weekend away with Martine in Zaragoza.

 While I have several tee shirts that say made in P.R.C. none of them say I've walked the wall! So, my friends,  you've been saved from my musings and reminiscences for at least this month.

The month got off to a good start: 23° and sunshine; always a real bonus when it's a public holiday as is the 1st here. Vaccinations done, a weekend in Zaragoza by train at the end of the month organised and of course some socialising. Eating cannelés, a speciality of Bordeaux , twice chez Jean-Jacques, lunch at Martine's, lunch at "Marfil ' in La Jonquera with Nicole after buying cava at Oliveda; two bottles for her and two cartons for me. 

 

Last but not least there was a 12 hour shift with JJ and Dali; arrived at Dali' s at midday supposedly to go to Oliveda for her to stock up on cava. Went in for a "verre" and finally got out quite a lot later. Did the business, had an apéro in Escudera in La J. That was a first! JJ had a tumbler of red wine, Dali had a very large whisky and coke and I had a very large G & T; all for 7€30. Unbelievable! Back to Dali's for omelette, mozzarella and tomato salad washed down with - - - - fill in the blanks yourself.

 

 It wasn't all fun though. Somehow I managed to muddle up my appointment with the oncolgist. Thought it was the afternoon when in fact, it was the morning. 

Fortunately, he gave me another one for a couple of days later. I also had another day in Perpignan with Nicole that was more pleasurable; no medical stuff  just lunch and some shopping.

11th November was another public holiday but instead of being on parade at the war memorial, I went to the market and had lunch at Jacques'. In the evening JJ and I were invited to Jean & Françoise's for a supper of  Calypso lentil soup, a recipe that I gave her a few years ago, that often makes its appearance chez elle. No complaints, it's well tasty!

 

Had another day out with Nicole, this time to Roses market. Despite my best efforts, I came empty handed.

Couldn't find anywhere for lunch at a reasonable price (being Sunday didn't help) that inspired us so we ended up at La Cabaña. 

Weather is amazing this week; warm enough to eat on the terrace at midday . . . and it's November! 

 

This month's music night at the bar was enjoyable. Met up with Françoise, Linde, Agnes (her Austrian sister-in-law), Peter (Agnes' fella) and Nicole. Shared some tapas and basked in Kevin's comment that I was the "coolest woman" in Maureillas! Pity at that point there were only a few of us to hear it. They say God loves a trier but it's not working for me! 

So, we're half way through the month. I've managed to get an appointment for a non urgent thyroid ultrasound by going in person to the clininc in Perpignan for . . . wait for it . . . 7th May!!! 

Talking of long waits; I finally managed to publish August's Chitchat. Only bloody mindedness keeps me going. It's hardly earth shattering. Hardly anyone reads it now, so when I'm dead all the hours spent, will like me evaporate into the sunset. Still, that's hopefully, sometime off.

17.11.23: 

Jennifer managed to fit me in for a haircut so I left for the weekend with Martine in Zaragoza looking my best. It was a real treat to see another world full of life! Jaques & Yaneth drove us to the station in Figueres. Had to change in Barcelona where we picked up the train for Seville. After airport type security checks, the boarding queue was also like Ryanair only 4x worse! Fingers were crossed that we were in the right queue! Amazingly, we were rapidly checked in. Spanish high speed trains are clean, spacious, equipped with tv and music, buffet and trolley service. Reached nearly 300km/h. Passed through uninteresting, barren countryside via Taragona and Lleida. 

Took a taxi (12€) to the Hotel Tibur on the Plaza Seo, right on the edge of the historic centre, a stone's throw from the River Ebro. Zaragoza (700,000 inhabitants) in Aragon, passed through Roman, and Moorish periods before Christian rule prevailed. The 3* hotel was comfortable enough, a bit outdated but had a view on to the St Pillar Basilica.

Settled in and went out in search of a bottle of cava. We were certainly well situated; plenty of interesting shops, cafés, restaurants and bars. Sat out at the Café Hippolita on St Felipe Square, where we ate nachos and guacamole and worked our way through a bottle. On the other side of the square was the upmarket Montal delicatesen, wine merchant and café an inviting looking place we earmarked for a breakfast. Finally, had a bite to eat at 22h in the St Jaime hotel right next door to ours ... modern, friendly staff and great value ... if we'd only known.

18.11.23

Started off with a coffee at the indoor food market built in 1903, which urban planners had almost demolished in favour of a new road scheme. 

Zaragoza, now the capital of Aragon, was founded by Augustus between 25 BC and 11 BC as a colony to settle army veterans. Named Caesaraugusta, a statue to Augusta and other Roman ruins are found next to the market. Elsewhere, there's an amphitheatre, bathes and the underground forum, next to our hotel.

 

From here we walked along the River Ebro and had another coffee and a bite to eat at Café Lolita. Nothing Lolita-like about us though! 

Couldn't not visit the basilica right opposite. OTT in size, gold and grandeur. Don't get me started on the wealth of the Church. 

 Our wanderings took us again to St Felipe Square which was just as charming in daylight as at night. 

 

Talk about being in the right place at the right time; we caught a fancy wedding. Of course we hung around over a drink waiting for them to come out.

A stylish affair, there was a Guardia Civil guard of honour, the groom in dress uniform and his mates in more regular uniform, women in mile high heels, even one in a mantilla. There also seemed to be a number of women of the similar age wearing a dress of the same colour and while not exactly the same, they were of similar design. There were also a number of men, this time of differing ages, in the same blue suits. At the time of writing, I haven't found out why. No bells rang out though there was plenty of noise, paper rose petals and confetti thrown. Even Martine got in on the act! 

 

The bridal car was an old Citroën traction avant classic car. Finally gave up trying to snap photos amid the press of invited guests and moved off to the nearby museum dedicated to Pablo Gargallo housed in the beautifully restored 17th century Palacio Argillo. 

And a well - worth - it visit it was, too. Bronze sculptures, sketches and designs. Born in 1881, he died in  1934. Interestingly his early work was the more avant garde (reminiscent of Dali) than the later which was of classical figures. 

Stomachs by this time were rumbling, so off we went through the thronged streets in search of lunch. Found ourselves in the El Tubo area which was nothing but tapas bars, stowed out with packed in happy people. Eventually, we spied a space in the Casa Buisan where we shared 5 chunky tapas and a large bowl of patas bravas washed down with a glass of wine. Did a bit of shopping in the afternoon sunshine; despite being a busy Saturday it was a hassle free as the streets were wide enough to cope.  

 

We both had very positive first impressions of Zaragoza. Clean city centre streets, lively but relaxed atmosphere, people enjoying life by night and day, architecture of different styles and public sculptures, large and small, fountains with water in them and of course .

 The wee rest back at the hotel was more than welcome and gave us the energy to visit the underground remains of a Roman Forum right next door. Finished off the evening at last night's bar but sadly it had to be wine as there was no chilled cava. By 10pm it was starting to get too chilly to be outside so we ended up in a café for a thick hot chocolate and churros to dunk in it. Don't think the day's 10km were anywhere enough to undo the inevitable! More walking on the cards tomorrow but then there's the restaurant we've reserved for lunch. Ah well, there's always next week, you might say, but sadly there isn't!

19.11.23:

Out for 8h30 to go in search of breakfast; yep, Martine is an early riser. Only went across the road to the Estación 16 cafeteria (well, it's right by the bus stop) and had bacon, egg and cheese baguettes and tea (Earl Grey and Rooibos). Ended up giving the two waitresses an English lesson. The young Chinese woman wanted to know what rojo and negro were in English so she could describe the tea and the young Spanish woman wanted to know what to do with the teabag! The lesson didn't extend to the signs on the wall, though!

Once fortified we walked along by the river to the Aljafaria Moorish Palace though we did far more steps than need be thanks to the gps on Martine's phone. 

Arab architecture and decoration is always a thing of beauty and this had

an overlay of Aragonese history attached. Part of it was used as a prison for the Inquisition and now houses the Aragonese Parliament. 

Weather had warmed up by the time we left so we stopped in the Plaza de Toros for a coffee and to enjoy the sun. Dropped into a Chinese bazaar on our way by which unlike yesterday's, had little by way of Xmas goodies to tempt us.

Our walk back took us into our favourite square with enough time for an apéro. Much to our delight one of the other cafés served cava, albeit in small 25cl bottles and large wine glasses. Again we were lucky on the entertainment front; this time there was folk dancing to traditional music for all and sundry. 

Our lunch was  our first "real meal" (ie, 3 courses with wine). I had a generous plate of  Iberico ham with tomato toasts, cod and leeks and baked cheese cake. Martine had a starter of pickled rabbit; we speculated as to if it had been a drunk rabbit or one that had been done in brine. In the end she decided that it had been "confied" like duck. 

Couldn't resist popping into a few shops on the way back; continued slowly on our way enjoying the sun and the ambiance of a leisurely Sunday afternoon.

Stopped in Pillar square to photo some sculptures and the monument to Goya, the city's N°1 son. 

 

Finally, Martine visited the Cathederal St Seo, built over a mosque, while I preferred to catch the last rays of the sun rather than pay the 6€ entry (1€ reduction for OAPs which she had to ask for). All our other visits had been free apart from the Aljaferia which cost 1€). Again no comment re the Church.

Had a rest and wandered out for another mini bottle of cava each while watching the waitress being taught to stack tables. Not so easy as you might think. Popped into another couple of this and that type shops; bought a "to do" note pad in Ale Hop, which fingers crossed might help my memory and were back for just after 10pm.

20.11.23

 

Did a rerun of yesterday's breakfast stop and walked around to make the most of the sunshine and our last couple of hours. Drank coffee and watched the world from the Plaza d'Espagne. 

 

Eventually, the time came to pick up our cases and take a taxi to the incongruously named Delicias Railway Station. 

 

The return journey as the sun went down was direct this time so it only took 2h30. 

JJ was at the other end to chauffer us home and Jacques was on standby with a roast dinner for the three of us.

Weather in Zaragoza; Sunny but glove wearing chilly start to the days reaching around 22° later 

After an easy going few days away, it was time to attack some chores at home. The sweep came and at the same time fixed my wobbly tap. Yep, that's right, plumbers sweep chimneys here. But the biggest job of all was pruning, weeding and sweeping up fallen leaves. Robert, who'd been volunteered by his wife, was due at 15h to help with the heavy pruning and take away the vegetation. Worked all morning, well, 3h and then for 2h30 after lunch. Robert came and pruned the lemon tree, I'd done all the rest. Don't know why but he said he hadn't a car and couldn't take the 3 bags of debris. Ah well, back to the drawing board!

There some treats, too. Needing to use the voucher for dinner at the restaurant before it closed for winter and Suzette being away, Jacques invited me to accompany him.Talk about right place, right time . . . lucky me

 

The next day brought another lunch date for an American Thanksgiving chez Jeanne and Daniel. Turkey, cranberry sauce, all the other usual trimmings and an invitation to share for what each of us was thankful. was enjoyed.  We were a mixed bunch; French/catalan, American, Japanese, American/Japanese, British and everyone of us enjoyed all that was put before us.

The third meal of consequence in three days took me up the mountains for a lunch organised by Anita. A few of us went back to JJ's to carry on with the merriment as we watched he and Dali practice their Dalida/Alain Delon routine for the upcoming karaoké. 

 

 

Had to dash off though as Jacques and I were going to a presentation about Bernard Leblon a French musicologist and photographer of Spanish gypsies.There were reminiscences, homages, a gypsy singer and flamenco guitarist and an appreciative audience in the packed out bookshop in Céret.

 Went back to JJ's armed with a bottle of cava, some smoked salmon, sundried tomatoes and aubergine caviar for a bit of a snack. The Dalida wig did the rounds including JJ and when we couldn't laugh anymore and the food was all gone and the bottle was empty, we all went on our separate ways.

Two visits to Figueres one day with Ann and Lynn and the next day with Anita and Dali. This trip to Figueres took a different form from the previous one. No coffee start, hit the market running; two stalls in and Dali was in the back of a van trying on evening dresses at the bargain price of 20€. Took four and decided on three, which at my suggestion, she bargained to have for 50€. On and around we went until we could go on and around no more. Headed for town and did a few shops and decided to look for a strategically placed lunch. Ended up at the café by the market for a basic with chips meal. Came home without even a cuppa to send us on our way.

Despite feeling tired after all this fun stuff, there was a good deed to be done that I couldn't duck out of. Cutting up and selling sweet and savoury goodies that had been donated for the Téléthon fundraising karaoke. It was indeed a good deed as I dislike both serving and karaoke! By 9pm, however,  I was completely whacked and abandoned ship.

Weather: the month started with 23°, going up to 27° at one point. There was a dip down to 13° toward the end of the month which finished with 18°. 😪 If you've followed our water crisis, you'll be asking if there was rain. Well, the answer is, "none of any consequence". Just a couple of overnight dampings and the forecast shows no promise of anything to come.

Nature Notes:

 

Falling into Autumn

 October 2023: A month of golden sunshine and an extra hour in bed as the clocks go back.

Oh yes, another destination to bring back vivid memories; this time of a month long visit to Mexico in an even earlier life. 1982 with John to be precise. Chichen Itza in particular brings back a memory of talking to a blue-rinsed American woman whilst taking a breather from going around the site. I marvelled at the scale and grandeur of the architecture to which her reply was, "yeah, but whata they done since!"

3,000 miles by bus and despite upset stomachs, mosquito bites, dreadful toilets whilst travelling, it was an unforgetable experience. We met Jay and Mary from the States with whom we we had much in common. It was a holiday frienship which lasted several years; they came to Scotland a couple of times and I went to Austin for a whole other experience; but that's another story

The main event this month was the visit of the Lagendorf Mandoline Orchestra; my friends Ines and Dirk were coming and would be staying on for a week longer to have some holiday. Dirk's cousin and her husband Manfred were coming, too in their camping car and were booked on the site in the village. Even though I was feeling a lack of energy, as well as the usual social activities, there were preparations to be made so that hopefully, all would go smoothly when they arrive in the middle of the month..

 Before that though, there were a couple of dinners at JJ's, a Nepalese curry chez Judith and Trevor a soirée chez Jim and Mags and Erika and Doug's farewell as they're back off to the UK. Sadly there was also a funeral. That of Isobel, who'd been on the Council with Christian; she was only 41 and had a young son.

On the culture front, this month's vernissage appealed as I like naif art. I particularly liked the one with the little yellow train. The artist was self taught and cleverly incorporated small lights into a couple of his works, like the one top left which was inspired by fireflies. Not sure if I told you already, but their first appearance in the Département was here. 

Also managed to fit in a trip to Figueres market with Nicole though sadly, not much time to get on the treadmill. Priorities, eh?

Dirk and his cousins arrived the day before the orchestra. Manfred unfortunately has a mobility problem following an operation on his back so this had to be factored into any of our activities. 

 The first week was fully organised with visits out, just one of which I went on (La Vajol) 

and official concerts to give, just one of which I attended (Reynes). The orchestra also gave an "unofficial" concert at the soirée in the village hall. The Germans provided homemade desserts loaded with cream and we were on savouries. Dirk's gâteau made with nutella was particularly sought after.  In actual fact he did two so we came home with some left overs which could not be resisted. Glad I hadn't seen the list of ingredients as it nearly gave me a heart attack when I did!

There was also a lunch of fideuà al fresco and at the other end of the culinary scale, a trip to the Pablo for a brasserie meal.

After a week of warm sunshine, we waved off the orchestra in the rain for the long haul back to Germany in one go. It had been a very successful visit on cultural, social and personal level. Now with no schedule to respect, life though still busy, became a bit easier.

There were days out in various combinations; Manfred didn't always go though as you can see, he was tempted by ice cream in Figueres, I didn't always join them and sometimes Anke felt that she shouldn't leave Manfred alone too much.

Wish I could lay claim to the paella but I can't. Dirk was it's creator. Well, he is a chef. The meal with Jacques and Suzette which I did wasn't quite as splendid; apart that is, from the left over gâteau which I can't lay clain to either. Manfred & Anke invited us for a BBQ; sausages à gogo and a lot of beer. Oh yes, there was also dinner at Jacques' and our autumn neighbourhood get together which provided an experience of local life. Yes, indeed, there was a lot of eating and drinking and not a lot of exercise.

Just one other thing: as Anke's dog (oh yes, I forgot that there was also Timmy, the Jack Russell that had to be taken everywhere) knocked over a plant outside the bakers. Much to Marie's surprise, a replacement was soon handed over. A good deal, methinks. As you can see from the photo, it was a much healthier looking specimen.

Over the two weeks I was able to do a few things of my own; mammo (all clear), blood tests to try and understand why my hair is coming out. They showed a vitamin D deficiency (even with all our sunshine) and a consequent GP consultaion. Injections were prescribed to help the hair sitution and as well as a non urgent thyroid ultrasound which is just, as well as there's a 6 week wait. Also had a walk with Françoise, coffee with Les Anglaises and 

 JJ's  birthday celebration. And some celebration it was, too! After we finally left the restaurant, the long stayers continued back at his house.

So, all holidays come to an end and this one was no exception. No time to draw breath though. 

That afternoon I accompanied Jacques to a concert given by Cécile in Sandrine's garden up in the mountains. No charge; just bring a bottle/cake for the interval. Sitting in the warm sunshine was a good way to wind down before meeting Izzy, Richard and their girls at the bar for a drink.

Next day, Jacques took Nicole and I to the market in La Jonquera where we came across this colonoy of Coypu in the river.

Ugh! Apparently, they're stewed in the States but I don't know about you, it's not something I'd go for. A stiff, very large G &T at the Marfil Bar brought some much needed comfort! Well, that's my excuse . . .

Weather: Day time temperatures between 23° and 30° , chillier evenings and just a smattering of soon - over rain. 

October's Notes of Nature