They came, I went, More came!

The 1st of October and the start of the annual month long campaign throughout France called "October Rose", which aims to raise breast cancer awareness . Nothing much in the village except a couple of posters and a fund raising walk. Last year I was all for doing something much more visible such as putting rose coloured lights on the church tower (not possible for some jobsworth reason or another), asking the rugby team to wear rose coloured armbands and put up a "men are affected  too" display at the club (not possible as the team relocated to a bigger town up the valley) and an "open door" information event but it fell victim to my inactivity. Collioure did much better even if they did use the same pink umbrellas as last year . . new ideas on a postcard to the Mairie!                                                        

On the home front, the first couple of October days were spent getting organised for Maureen and Andy's visit with their friends Robin and Neus who live in Barcelona and whom I'd never met. Thank goodness Thérèse came good!

3rd - 10th October 2022:

Managed to do all I needed to including an oldies gym session and a trip to the supermarket before they all arrived in time for tea which was rapidly followed by apéritifs on the terrace. In fact, Neus and Robin, who by the way were good company, could only stay until Thursday. Of course they took in the latest exhibition at the Modern Art Museum. Then the next day there was another trip back to Céret for them to do a bit of shopping. I'd hurtled off to Peprignan earlier for my annual mammo and ultrasound (all well) and I made it back to meet them at the "Pied dans le Plat" for lunch. I hadn't eaten there since it had changed hands and I must say that it was a good rapport qualité/prix; better than it had been. Otherwise, they were happy to take it easy. Shame that Robin couldn't play at the bar as it was closed but we benefitted from a wee pre - dinner concert.

 

Though we did do a leisurely walk one afternoon.

Andy and Maureen stayed on for a few days more; the time passed pleasantly even though it included a bus trip to Perpignan for a clinic appointment. Nothing to worry about and lunch with Maureen on the Quai Vauban in the sunshine was a great way to unwind. In the evening, the three of us went to this month's vernissage. It was the turn of the Village painting group so the exhibition was well attended, the artwork was eclectic and the apéritif was well provisioned!

We were invited to JJ's for an apéritif, had another walk, met Françoise for coffee at the bar, went to hear Kevin play and on another evening we went to the restaurant for dinner which was well appreciated; by Andy and Maureen for the quality and creativity and by me as I was being treated! Merci, mes amis écossais.

Saturday, of course meant a trip to the market and Sunday Jean and Françoise took us down to Collioure where we wandered around the town. Our first port of call was to visit the grave of Antonio Machado, a Spanish poet who fled Franco, coming to the town where he died in 1939. The grave is firmly on the Spanish Civil War "pilgrimage" map as is evidenced by all the messages, flags, flowers and other objects left there.

Next, we had a trip on the tourist train . . . . . you're allowed to snigger but not tell anyone! Actually it took us high up among the vines, passed the Fort St Elme, down into Port Vendres returning along the coast. We had picturesque views all along the journey of just under an hour and just so that you know, we were accompanied by people a lot younger than us!

Rejoined Jean and Françoise, for lunch over looking the sea.

An after lunch walk was called for, so off we headed up through the Jardin Pams to the moorish styled Gloriette (sorry, can't find a date for it) and then onto the restored 14th century windmill.

From here it was all downhill to the sea; every time I see this view of the Château Royal (top right), I'm reminded of the Comrie Pipe Band marching along the path playing their way into the town. I can tell you, it was something really special. 

And so, back home, Andy and Maureen had to set to and pack up ready to leave on the morning bus to Perpignan for their train to Barcelona. After waving them off, I turned my attention to packing my own suitcase for my departure to UK tomorrow. Ever one to procrastinate, I pottered around and invited Jacques for a cuppa but needs must. I went to bed happy in the knowledge that all was set for the off, nothing was forgotten and that I was getting a lift to Perpignan with Jacques and JJ. rather than take the bus.

11th - 26th Oct: Catching up with Family and Friends

A no - problem flight with Ryanair to Birmingham and a warm welcome from Mary. The first night we spent at home; lots of chat, a bottle of cava and of course, a good spread on the table. Making the most of the autumnal sunshine, we went for a walk in Sutton Park the next morning. Hope that the large number of holly berries already on the bushes is not an omen of a harsh winter as country wisdom foretells.

The walk was a good way to work up an appetite for lunch at "The Plough and Harrow", a gastro pub in Aldridge, apparently frequented by local "names". Either there wasn't anyone to see or we didn't recognise them! 

Next day, I took the train (luckily missing the latest round of strikes) to Lichfield to meet up with Jen who had arrived the day before. 

After a coffee, we hit the tourist trail and started where else but the the monumental 3 spired cathedral built in 1195, which houses a medieval wall painting, the famous Herkenrode stained glass, the Lichfield Gospels (700AD) and Lichfield Angel. Inside we were surprised but pleased to find a touring exhibition featuring a scale model of the moon. Also a monumental work in its own right.

Steeped in history, Lichfield was the birthplace of Samuel Johnson, the writer of the first authoritative English dictionary and Erasmus Darwin (grandfather of Charles Darwin) among other intellectuals. 

The historic centre has 230 listed buildings and is relatively unspoilt. Had lunch at N°19, opposite the cathederal and had a walk around the town, stopping at "The George", a sister hotel of ours, to book dinner as we qualified for a discount. 

Our hotel (comfortable, helpful, pleasant staff) was a little farther out of the centre so off we went for a cuppa and a relax before heading out again for said dinner.

Next day, we drove a few miles out of  town to the "Heart of the Country" shopping village housed in 19th century farm buildings. The shops and eateries all had scarecrows outside them on temporary display.

There is also a walking trail weaving through the trees where you can see

 

 a couple of impressive looking snub nosed pigs

and indulge your inner child in the fairy wood.

After the shade of the woods, lingering over lunch at the courtyard café in the sunshine was most welcome. Had a wander around the shops before heading back to town to visit the part of the centre that we'd not yet seen; Jen had a cuppa while I had a look around the shops. After a short rest at the hotel, we went for pub food which proved to be not too bad. That's got to be a win!

After a good breakfast, Jen saw me off on the train back to Four Oaks where Mary was waiting to ferry me off to the airport. What good friends I have! In case you're wondering if I'd charted a private plane to take me down to Jill's, I'd better explain that Rosie, as luck would have it, was flying in from Australia where she'd been to meet her first grandchild so we were able to share the taxi she'd ordered down to Jill's.

Jill, too welcomed us with good food and a bottle of cava, over which we caught up with all the news. Chris arrived next day to collect Rosie and although we only had a short time together it was good to see everyone. The last time we were together was at the beginning of March 2020 and there's been a lot of water under the bridge since; who knows what's in front and when we'll next manage to have something other than a whatsapp video call.

Managed to see all except Oli and Tash who were away with the their kids for half term. Highlights were a guided tour of Mel's new appartment, a "Sœurs" night out at the tapas bar followed by a drink at "The George", dinner at "The Bell" (thanks, Jill), and a two for the price of one cocktail night back at "The George; and what a night that was. Surreal! Mel, Jill and I ended up in conversation with a self - styled previous bad boy transformed into a self styled wellness guru and his quieter pal who turned out to be a Reform Party Brexiteer. Well, there was some heated discussion between he and I which ended with him wanting to shake my hand for debating the subject. 

Just had to capture the moment that he knelt down to do so. Imagine the irony of it all and more cocktails followed!

Farthest I travelled was  to Stratford on the bus with Jill where we had a look around the shops and lunch at Marco's with the best value glass of wine that I had on the trip. 

 After a stay - in - all - day the day before, as it had just rained and rained, it was lovely to see the autumn leaves in all the glorious sunshine.  Met with Jean and John for a cup of tea and a 3 year catch up; we even sat out on the terrace at the back. There was another day out in Stratford, this time Mel came with us. Lunch and more shopping. 

I couldn't put off any longer fulfilling Camille's heartfelt wish for a solar powered "Dancing Queen"; not just one for her but one for her sister, too! Should add that they're French. Handing over money for this horribly made bit of kitch was a real challenge, I can tell you.

The rest of the time was spent calmly enough with

a couple of walks when the weather allowed, a very restrained amount of alcohol, tv, films, papers and getting spoilt by Jill.

Return flight went without a hitch and the family were there waiting for me at the airport having first checked in at home. Dinner at Jacques's on our arrival meant that none of us went to bed hungry.

27th - 31st Oct:

With little preparation for my visitors, it was a matter of going with the flow and not getting stressed. Lunch at 66 on the first day gave a breathing space to get organised enough to see us through the visit especially as the family had a coule of days out. Even managed to entertain. 

Jacques came for a raclette dinner (well the apparatus is his) and there were 11 of us for an apéritif dinatoire that followed an aperitif on the square organised by Jacques and Yaneth. It wasn't all eating and drinking though. Frank went out on his bike which had shared the back seat of the car with the girls and not to be out done,

there was an all female early morning walk. Otherwise, a trip to the market with the obligatory apéritif at "The France" and a couple of home cinema evenings filled the time.

So, the clocks changed over the last weekend but the weather continued to have unseasonally high temperatures and just look how the pepper plant has grown from a stray seed in the water I'd washed some veg in. 

 Ah, the small pleasures in life . . .

Plenty of Sunshine, a Little Rain, Cooler Temperatures

 September 2022:

The bit's between my teeth. Having just caught up with the last three months, I'm going with the flow and making a start on September. The month started as hot as August but night is arriving noticably earlier and early mornings are cooler. There's less coming and going and visitor demographic has moved from families and grandparents with their grand children to second homeowners and retirees.

1st - 7th

Ist day of the month and my first dinner invitation. Another bbq around at Michel's  where I was the only female. A real Queen Bee moment with JJ, Jacques and Thierry joining Michel in attendance.

The next day I went off with Françoise for the annual "Visa for an Image" International photo journalism festival. With an early coffee stop to keep us going, we visited 13 exhibitions on 7 sites at a gallop . The exhibitions  were mostly of war, poverty and other misery so this wee selection is not representative.

Le douzième voyage de la goélette Tara. (Scientific studies in Antartica)

Pêches mondiales (Living by fishing: photos taken from a motorised paraglider)

Toute en retraite (discreet photos of people, rich and poor). No prizes for guessing which one is of Mme Mitterand in Mali.

As well as the photos, visitors get to see buildings that are not normally open to the general public. This is the garden of the "Maison de Catalinité" and was a welcome respite inbetween the more harrowing images our eyes had been taking in and before we went inside to see photos of animals under threat of being wiped out. But there's only so much that your feet and head can take so we called it a day and went for lunch at le Café de la Poste opposite the fancy restaurant, "Le Mess", (19th century Officers' Mess) now closed due to a serious fire last week. We were lucky to get a place as it was getting late and no concessions were being made regarding opening times despite all the visitors in town with money in their pockets. 

On the social side of life, I had a relaxing coffee  with Ann, which being out of the village, meant we could have a good catch up with out interruption as happened last time. There was also a no work apéritif in the square with crisps, chorizo and a few other bought in nibbles to eat. To drink we opened a couple bottles of cava and one of champagne to toast Camille's birthday that had been a couple of days previously. Other than that, I caught up with two months of Chitchat (time consuming), had a couple of sessions on the treadmill (hard going), watched "Kingsman" (amusing) and indulged my latest fad for sobrasada melted over burrata (scrummy).

Weather: 30° - 34°, occasional rumbles of thunder and a few drops of rain but not enough to get out of watering the plants.

8th - 15th

Well, there's only been one topic of conversation for days; the death of the Queen. Morning, noon and night; wall to wall; every which way. Economic problems and concerns rumble on but have been pushed off the agenda.Couldn't help but think that meeting Boris and Liz on the same day was just too much for E.R. What's more, I'm surprised how much coverage there has been in France and how many women have said that they admire the Queen and how wonderful she was despite avidly watching "The Crown" with its less sychophantic approach.

Closer to home, a shock came with the news that Danielle (an ex partner of Philippe, from whom we bought the house) with whom we'd remained friends, had died suddenly. She's at least 10 years younger than me and a councillor in a neighbouring village. 

I've been out and about though for more jolly reasons, too.

There was a  cancer support fund raiser where I struck lucky with two tombola wins in the short time I was there.. Won a used palette now hanging in the entry at the top of the stairs and a handbag size bottle of bacardi waiting in the cupboard for some cocktail inspiration.

Attended a vernissage of very colourful painings. Make of it what you will. My great neices found them pretty scary. The artist was a "live wire" full of chat who went around the room asking the women there to have a photo taken with him for his instagram page. Needless to say, my response was a negative one. Couldn't linger as David and Laura were due at Jacques' for dinner. I really should have a loyalty card as there was also a lunch at his and another dinner this time with Jim and Mags, still reeling from the loss of their daughter.

This week Jacques offered not just food but also a day out; where ever I wanted to go. Stopped off in Bascara, a small walled  town for a walk around and coffee. It was a friendly place, full of bric-à-brac; prices were friendly, too. Decided to head to La Bisbal for lunch though made a halt at Verges where there was a carboot sale. Didn't buy anything. Jacques had only bypassed La Bisbal, a town known for the industrial production of ceramics of all kinds. Had a good wander around and settled on "Taverna Flanagan" for lunch. Imagine; an Irish Bar serving Guinness and Murphy's, in a Catalan town run by a Chinese family! 

From here we finally we made it to Llafranc our goal by the sea. Did some more wandering and indulged in a crème catalan ice cream in a chocolate cone. Naughty but nice!   

Came home via Peretelada, a pretty medeival village, having a slight hold up on the way as police and fire officers were on the scene of an upturned car in a ditch. 

. . . and the eating out didn't end there. There was an impromptu invitation to join M & Mme le Général with two Brits for cava and tapas at the bar and a rendez-vous there with Nicole P and Mathilde for lunch.

Otherwise Oldies' gym started again, I psyched myself up to do a couple of sessions on the treadmill and of course watched a fair bit of tv. Weatherwise temperatures were 30° - 32° apart from one day when they descended to 29! There were also a couple of short evening rain showers that hardly wetted the soil. The week ended as it began with sad thoughts of  bereavements with Danielle's funeral where there was so many people that Yaneth, Jacques and I had to stand outside.

16th - 25th:

Sticking to my 6 at the table limit, I had Eric, and three Michel's (2 male and one female) for a curry dinner thus easing my conscience and providing me with food for several days to come.

After that it was a very Anglophone few days. Of course the world media has been wall to wall, every which way and here, there and everywhere coverage of  E.R.'s demise. There's been no escape even in the village with folk presenting their condolances and marvelling at all the events that made up the 10 days of mourning and of course, the funeral itself. Anyway back to the real world, there was  . . . 

• A catch up with Lynn , Ann and Dani which wasn't even enlivened by a glass of wine as we met at 17h30.
  

• A day out; yes another. This time with Lynne, (driver), Penny (navigator) and Jo (chatterbox) to Tossa de Mar. A first with this group and I didn't regret it.
  

Still plenty of tourists; lots of Brits and French so the little 'train', shops, cafés and restaurants were still functioning. Started with admiring the splendid moderniste 'Hotel Diana' where Christian and I had spent a couple of nights years ago; pity they've spoilt the front with a covered terrace. Greed before aesthetics, I suppose. Next a leisurely coffee looking over the sea. Enjoyed splendid views  on the  walk up to the lighthouse, while

learning the stories behind sculptures we passed. There's also one of Ava Gardener who had filmed in the town but as she was mobbed by all the tourists being photoed next to her, we gave her a miss. On the other hand, there was no such problem with the sculptures here. The lives of ordinary peole don't cut it, apparently.

Wending our way back down through the quaint narrow streets we stopped off for a good lunch at 'Santa Marthe'. Went back to the car through the town and while the others collected their swimming togs, I went and found a shady bench to read my book until they reappeared. Before hitting the road for home, we had a beach bar stop for a last refreshment. A cornetto for me. Well, it was a day at the seaside! Coming through the square on my way to the house, I stumbled across the neighbours (Camille, Geneviève, Jacques, Nicole, Celine then later Coralie, Maud and Rémi) having an apéritif. So, helped by a glass of rosé, it was back into French after a full day of English.

• Lunch at Sue and Harry's on their patio. Delicious stuffed aubergines cooked by Harry . It was interesting spending some time with them getting to know them better. 

• Supper at Nicole S's after which we watched "Downton Abbey" in English.

In theory, the walk with Françoise, Thérèse and Patricia should have been a chance for me to practise my French but they all wanted to practise their English for one reason or another!

As you can see, there has been some cork harvesting since the last time we passed by here.

Always a pleasure to walk through the grounds of the Retreat and there were only another 20 minutes to go until I could stop off at the café for a reviving cuppa.

• Last but not least, there was dinner at mine for friends (2 Brits and 2 Irish) who were owed a return of hospitality and Maggie's husband, also British. All went well and I was really pleased that I’d invited Trevor as he said he’d not talked as much since Maggie had died. By the time I’d cleared up and washed the glasses, I went to bed absolutely bushed! As I’ve said before, it’s hard entertaining on your own unless of course you’re called Jacques!

Talking of flying solo, I wonder why this stork spent the night in the tree opposite the house all alone. I guess the others were long gone.

. . . And we had a couple of days of much needed intermittant heavy rain. 

26th - 30th:

The week started with a gruelling oldies' gym session (mat work) that left me with aching muscles. Oh well, no pain, no gain, as they say. Although I slowed down, time still sped by. My days were peppered with late nights watching tv and with a number of meals with friends. First off Eric invited Jacques and I to join him at the restaurant up the mountains for dinner.  

 Didn't know Jacques could drive with such attention but there again it's a very windy road! Came across a pack (well, 5) gendarmes at the enty to the village on the way back, who were probably on the look out for clandestines or whatever. There was also dinner at Anna & Gérard's; they too, operate the six around the table rule and lo and behold they served duck breast, which you careful readers of Chitchat, will know is my favourite dish. Then at the end of the week, Françoise did a "farewell until next year" apéritif for her neighbours. 

I also entertained Jacques for lunch after a shopping trip to La Jonquera and JJ, Jean and Françoise for an apéritif dinatoire. Didn't bother taking any photos of these events as there was nothing different to interest you.

The best day of the week came on Friday. While Thérèse beavered in the house, I set off with JJ to collect David and Laura for another "thank you" day out. Once again we went over the border with St Llorenç de la Muga as our goal. First off, through Pont de Molins where we started to follow the river Muga along winding, verdant roads. 

We were so lucky that there had been plenty of rain the day before, as the waterfall in Escaules which falls 30m amid jutting cliffs and hidden caves, was in full force. In 1980, excavations uncovered polished stones and ceramics, as well as lithic industry artifacts of the lower-mid Palaeolithic, suggesting that the caves had been inhabited for more than 60,000 years.The woman in the café/bar alongside gave us a rather terse welcome as she put the kettle on to boil; not that it did, as the coffee arrived lukewarm. However she did thaw out and became almost jolly when she knew where she came from. She knows our policeman well. 

On we went and stopped off in Boadella for a walk around. Boadella is one of the oldest documented villages in Catalunya and like others along the river, there is eveidence of a previous milling tradition. Its centre borders the river Muga, has some river pebble paved streets and 18^th century houses with red and white undereaves that have designs to ward off evil spirits and witches.

Next came a short detour up to the sanctuary of  La Mare de Déu de la Salut at 300m. Had an aperitif on the terrace with superb views far and wide. Made it to our destination at the right time to head for  lunch. Went to the Hostal de l'Aigua, a long ago favourite of Christian and mine. Even spent an overnight there for my birthday one year. The food was as creative and tasty as it ever was.

A walk around the walled (+ 3 portcullises) village where there was plenty to see, was a welcome bit of exercise. Have to say that people over this side of the border could learn from the South Catalans about the preservation of their patrimony and the cleanliness of their villages.

Stopped for a coffee at the Café Sociedad (communal) in the main square after which we headed home by a more direct route.

Weather: For the most part it was sunny but temperatures dropped to the low 20's and we were finally rewarded with some heavy rain that left some snow on Canigou. 

While life ticked over here in a calm and some would say an indulgent way, the wider world faced turbulent times. Floods in Asia, hurricane Ian in the States, the continuing war in Ukraine, in UK the death of the Queen and the catastrophic arrival of Liz Truss as the new Primeminister with an outragous economic policy. Have neither time nor energy to sound off about it all here. "Carpe diem" while you can!