Already March

March 2023: Another South American destination, so you'll know from Febrary that I've never been here and if truth be told, highly unlikely to do so.  March has brought more blossom, the reopening of the café, the equinox and the start of summertime. Longer days are on their way.

For a change, I won't start off by talking about food. Much as it makes up a lot of the life here, there are other equally pleaurable things. Like, Nancy's visit for two weeks from the States. Always good to have a breath of fresh air come gusting into "everyday" life even though it was over in a flash. It's always a culture shock when Nancy comes to visit but with her increasing mobility problems the journey is getting more and more difficult so were all wondering for how long she can keep toing and froing.

Let's start with an update on things cultural. 

March is notable for International Women's Rights Day on the 8th and it was marked at the Mairie by the inauguration of a photo exhibition of village woman prior to 1960. The Association, whivh I've fallen out of love with, held its annual women's get-together over coffee and cakes (presumably made by women) served by men. Bought a bunch of raffle tickets in aid of a women's refuge but didn't stop, prefering to join friends of both sexes for coffee at the bar. This month's vernissage at the museum was cancelled at the last moment but we did fare a bit better on the music front. There was a short concert of Cuban music at the Foyer given by "Las Charangas", a Franco/British/Catalan group of musicians which was excellent.

On the 17th, I met Linde in the bar for our traditional St Pat's dram of whiskey. There was musicand plenty of people came in to hear the 7 musicians who'd gathered to play. Left about 20h30; there's nothing like the real thing and it was nothing like the real thing.

One Sunday morning, just before he was due to leave for Thailand, Michel brought croissants and played for a group of us at the bar. It was cold sitting outside but the ambience was warm, chat was animated (when we weren't listening or singing along) and it certainly livened up the square.

Combined exercise with culture another Sunday with Flore; no, you've never heard of her before. She works for the Mairie in "The Maison pour Tous (where Christian's room is) and with real people skills, she is great  asset. This was the first time I'd spent a length of time with her and we got on well. I was relieved to be able to keep up with her on the costal walk between Le Racou and Collioure and back. Flore is both younger and fitter than me! So, that's the exercise bit. 

The culture came by way of a visit to the museum  in Collioure after our picnic overlooking the sea. The museum, created in 1934 by a Russian, has collections of modern and contemporay art with a connection to the town, which was and still is, a magnet to artists both known and aspiring. Have to say, I prefered the garden behind in the grounds of an old Dominican abbey much more enjoyable!

Had a trip to the cinéma in Perpignan with Lynne and Debbie, to see "Empire of Light. Some critiques portray it as overrated but I found it took me along the full spectrum of emotion. At home, I watched "An Irish Goodbye" which was well deserving of its best short film oscar. What a find! You can catch up with it on iplayer.

Dinner at Babette and François's combined food and culture and brought another late night. Conversation ranged from music (inevitable: Babette plays clavicord and other assorted keyboards. François plays cello and guitar), to travel (mostly Greek), language including Greek and Latin (hosts are teachers), politics (par for the course) and "The Crunch ( great delight at the 53 - 10 rugby result).

In addition, as well as morning coffees there were other more substantial get togethers with friends.  

• Chez JJ: Martine did a starter. Michel brought wine, Carmen did a Catalan egg flan, not sure what Jacques brought and I did guggy cake (Sue Lawrence) dowsed in orange liquer, as requested by JJ (the cake not the liquer). Our host opened a pack of olives, nachos and a bottle of cava for the apèro. For the main course he opened two tins of confit duck legs and started some sauté potatoes. Well, Carmen took over the cooking as he was sautéing the potatoes with a lid on the pan! Oh yes, he did some green salad and cheese, too. All very tasty.
• Chez Anita: A tapas style lunch with Jacques and his friend Bernard. Three bottles of cava, a lot of laughs and empty plates later we headed for home, only to reunite a couple of hours or so after to eat soup and drink more cava at Jacques'. This time JJ joined us so it was late to bed.
• Chez Jacques twice more: First for a bowl of homemade soup . . . it was a rich duck and butternut squash one. JJ and Anita were there too, to help out. As usual the apéro lasted about 2 hours and the conversation flowed as fast as the fizz, making it 1am when the evening broke up. Secondly for yet more wild boar. I took a dessert of triple ginger muffins (ground, crystalised and stem) topped with lemon glacé icing, . Had a flash of inspiration ... served the muffins with a whisky mac. Both went down well. Managed to get away from the table and home just after 22h30 
• Chez Kathy for dinner wth JJ and Michel. Left having ben well fed and a reminder to change the clocks
  
• Chez Michel for tea
  
• Chez Nancy for an apéro; just crisps and olives but the wine was plentiful
  
• Chez Nicole for an apéro; just a small glass of sloe gin but plenty of canapés to eat. I was invited back again a couple of weeks later and this time there was a bottle of cava (the one I'd taken the last time!) to oil the vocal cords.
  

•  Chez moi: Tea with Michel when we tucked into the delicious sacher tortes that we'd bought earlier in Figueres
•  An "us only" apéritif dinatoire with Nancy with plenty to eat and plenty to drink. Inevitably the conversation was wide ranging and the hoots of laughter frequent! 
• Dinner for David & Laura, Jacques & Suzette, Michel (only there for the  apéro) and JJ who arrived 30 minutes late after I phoned; he'd not changed his clocks. Loaded the dishwasher, cleared up but couldn't face doing to glasses. Just too bushed.Have come to the conclusion that if I want to have enough energy left to fully enjoy my guests' company, I need to spread the work over a couple of days or do less food.

Ate at the bar with Nancy who treated JJ, Jean and Françoise and I by way of thanks for services rendered before and during her visit and once at the restaurant to celebrate Thiery's 60th birthday. Have to say that I was surprised to get an invite as he's more friendly with Jacques and Michel than me but you'll hear no complaint coming from my mouth. There were 14 of us altogether for dinner though Jacques, Suzette and yours truly had already kicked off the evening at mine with a bit of fizz. There was a glass of champagne there and a three course meal to follow making it a pleasant evening. Thierry seemed happy with how it all went, too. 

Michel and I ended up back a Jacques'. The men played guitar and drank  "Danish Frogman" (!) rum while Suzette & I drank a tisane. Sorry the photo is not very clear but I just wanted to give you proof that it's not a wind up. The one we had in the restaurant (with the agreement of the owners) at 40% proof was enough for me! Even that was a mistake.

2nd May: Need to stop and get organised for tonight's (2nd May as I write) dinner guest but March is almost finished. I'm making progress!😊 Back soon. . . 

3rd. Well, that was tempting fate. I've just taken 2h30 correcting, tweaking and finishing off March and the b..... internet went down and today's work was lost. I'm angry😠, tired😫, unhappy😭 and need to eat lunch. Luckily there are left overs from last night. Back in a bit . . .

Hi again! A big plate of rice (to keep the anger down), an online jigsaw (to empty my head), the sun on my face (to bring back a smile) and I'm good to go again. . . now where was I? Ok, time to talk about getting out from the village.

As well as three trips to the market in Figueres with Michel, two of which finished with lunch at 9 Suprèm there was:

A trip to Port Vendres with Jean and Françoise to visit the renovated ship "Pascual Flores" out of Torrevieja, Valencia, built in 1917 as a salt carrier. Talking of Catalan seafarers, there was an interesting article in the Guardian  reporting on a documentary that aired recently on Spanish tv. It looked at how revenue from the slave trade financed industry and building work in Barcelona. Guell, a patron of the "venerated" Guadí, was one such profiteer.

A day out to Coustouges and beyond with Jacques and Suzette to take Rowena the films that I'd downloaded onto a key for her (good deed box ticked!). We were late starting, then there was the need to get petrol with consequent phone call to Ro, then a rethink and another call to Ro, then we decided to walk down the track rather than confront the potholes. Jacques, who was behind us took the wrong track and never arrived af Ro's! Suzette went in search of him and found him near the top of the track. The key was back with it's owner and as it was already getting late, I set off to meet them but had to turn back as Suzette had left her jacket. If this has been tedious to read, I can tell you it was a darn sight more frustrating living it.

Stopped off in the village where there is a small 12th century church and streets with picturesque names, for a look around. Finally made it to lunch at Maçanet for 15h. Food was good and it was relaxing, sitting outside in the sun. Went for coffee at the Communal café then it was on to Darnius to look in amazement at the lack of water in the lake.  

 The last outing in March was an away-day with David, Laura, Martine and JJ which took us to Banyoles via Espinavessa so as to check out "La Rectoria", a favourite restaurant of bygone days. Found out that it had closed down. Looked at the church, walked down to the spring which had only a trickle of water and apart from a barking dog and a glimpse of an elderly woman sitting in her garden, there was no sign of life. Went onto Esponella where we stopped in a wee shop and café where we had a coffee served by a delightful woman; she told us about " Sa Poma" a restaurant of similar standing as the Rectoria. We made a detour to check it out. It's a stylish place in an old mas. Prices too high for an ordinary Friday lunch and anyway, we had Banyoles in our sights. Had lunch at "La Carpa" (18€, 3 courses + wine) overlooking the lake. As our drivers had an appt at 17h30, there was only time for a short stroll before we needed to head for home. The old town centre will have to wait for another day.

Weather: Started with 12°, rising to 25° then falling back to 23° at the end of the month. Can't complain, can we. Only a few hours of rain and the authorities are starting to get worried.

                      And so the sun sets on March in Chitchatland!

Making the most of the Sunshine before Autumn Arrives

Well, October has drifted by and here I am in the middle of November doing my usual catch up job. Not sure how much longer I can keep this up so will do a rethink in the New Year.

 1st- 7th October: While pleased for them, I was sorry to learn that Lone & Jesper, my Danish friends, had sold their house. So that's another family that have reached a point in their life where a holiday home has become too much to keep on. Spent a pleasant farewell evening around at theirs with an international contingent: a kiwi, an American, some Scots and as many English. Started with drinks on the rooftop terrace and then went down a floor for dinner.

 

There was also a meal at JJ's on Saturday evening with Jean, Françoise and Sandrine. There was discussion as well as food, some of it, heated (feminism and women's eaquality).

Chez moi, the plumber came to call. Yep, another problem; a leak in a hot waterpipe. While he was here, he changed a leaking tap and fixed another. 

In the village, the other café/bar has transformed itself into a bistro with a hike in prices to pay for it. A cuppa is 50c more than in the other one. I have to admit it's of a superior quality so I'm not complaining and with colder days approaching, driving us cold souls inside, the surroundings are more comfortable and pleasing on the eye. 

Apart from that, the only other event of note was a checkup with a cardiologist who didn't find anything wrong so my elevated heart rate is a mystery.

 Weather: The coolest day was 19° and the warmest 28° so there was still plenty of opportunity to eat lunch on the patio and have a coffee with friends on the terrace of the café. Just one day with some rain.

8th - 14th October:  Birthday's were on the agenda this week. First there was a late celebration of Martine's at her house where 11 of us and a bored 14 year old drank champagne, ate foie gras, duck parmentier and two scrummy, calorific birthday cakes. After all that it was well and truly time for bed and with the promise to myself that I would give the treadmill a miss even if it was needed more than ever after the evening's excess.

JJ's birthday was celebrated a few days early. Started with champagne and foie gras at mine when we gave him the present that Martine and I had found a couple of days previously over the border. Had the priviledge of being the 1st passenger in her brand new hybrid car. What a bonus! It beeps when it strays over the white line and when obstacles are too close. Sigh of relief from all those who ever drive with her! Afterwards, JJ traeated us to dinner at the bistro where we had a "not copious, generous" (as the chef corrected us when he asked for feedback) 3 courses!

Also had an impromtu lunch at Jacques' with Sandrine and apéritifs at Beverley and James's to say "goodbye" to Sue and Harry who were heading back to UK after a few weeks getting the house back in shape after a long enforced abesence. Made the most of the clement weather to watch the sunset with a glass of wine in hand. Came home with next year's calendar and two paintings which I'll need to find some wall space for.

I had more contact with the Association this week than I've had in ages. The AGM was on the 8th and was held in the restaurant, or canteen as Christian would have called it due to it's size and lack of character, where we ate afterwards. It was late starting, boring and not well prepared. Plenty of people to chat with though and we were joined at the table by Michèle et Henri which is always entertaining. Michael was good company, too.

I also joined the walking group, as this week the walk was in aid of "Octobre Rose" which is a national month long event to raise awareness of breast cancer. About 30 of us sporting something pink strode out (well, some of us) on the 3km uphill route mostly on a back road which took us over a humped medieval bridge, to a history exhibition charting the history of the village, the church with it's fresco and views over to 3rd - 5th century Roman vestiges. Of course, our street did it's bit, too

Time for a cuppa so I will be back with you before the weekend's out to finish off this week and with any luck, the rest of the month. . . . ok, ready to go again. 

Let me think what else was of note during the week. Oh yes, there was the annual carboot sale though last year it didn't happen due to covid restrictions. Memories of 2019's event which was enlivened by the Pipe Band whose memebers got off the bus after 2 days travel and played in the sunshine. It was fabulous! It's worth going back to remind yourself what a good time was had by all concerned and how splendid they looked in their regalia.

This year was a pale reflection. As I arrived the first people that I bumped into were Martine and Robert (relatives of my friends in Colombia) who bore me off, via chatting to several people on the way, to the buvette. Sadly, when we got there, the only apéros were beer or coke so off we went, with several chat stops to the bistro. No luck there either, it was closed. Nothing else to do than head to mine for a bottle of chilled cava and put the carboot saleon hold until next year.

Weather: Temperatures between 20° and 26° though getting cooler first thing. Blue skies and sunshine. 

15th - 22nd October: Feeling obliged not to keep giving village activities a miss, I attended the Carnival AGM which was of course followed by an apéritif. Not exactly earth shattering. Still, the Saturday market earlier on in the square was something else. A group called the Black Kilts made a welcome addition to our usual coffee/apéro break and didn't they just gave it "laldie" as the Scots would say. What a lift to the spirits and the sun was shining, too. 

 The rally around the village up in the mountains, organised by the Association, was cancelled due to lack of participants however, the apéro offered by a local group and the meal at the restaurant went ahead thus brownie points were more pleasurably won. I even put in an appearance at the Association's game of pétanque during the week and took some photos for the website though truth be told I was there as Hortense had said that she'd been invited to play. Luckily for both of us, she was knocked out early on and joined me for a coffee at the café.

 The week was pretty full on with much to enjoy. Went to Girona with Jacques and Suzette.

Early start so no treadmill but walking around the town taking in the sights gave me more than enough steps to compensate. The curry we had at lunch time, however, might have undone most of the good.  

 As legend dicates "Qui besa el cul de la lleona retorna a Girona". If your linguistic skills are not up to it, it means if you kiss the lioness's "bum" you'll return to Girona. However, at the moment the actual statue is protected from covid ladened smackers! So, perhaps that's why there are so few Ryanair flights flying in these days.

The actual day of JJ's birthday, we were invited along with Suzette and Jacques, Lone and Jesper to Jim and Mags' where we had a very sociable evening over an Italian themed meal A little bird had told them that it was JJ's birthday so there was a cake complete with candle and a rendition of 🎶 "Happy Birthday"🎶. A pretty late night; what a  joy of not having to go to work the morning after!

Lone and Jesper continued to be in the limelight as their departure came ever closer. 🇩🇰 There was farewell dinner at Jacques'. Charged with taking responsibility for dessert, I baked my 'always works' orange cake. The easiest ever as you just whizz a whole orange (peel but no pips) and all the other ingredients in a processor and cook. Another farewell to L & J followed; this time organised by themselves. Aperitifs at the bar out on the terrace with Jesper always on hand to fill up the wine glasses!

Finally managed to get a date for JJ and myself to eat at the bistro with Robert and Martine. Started with an apéro chez moi beforehand. A meal ofMoroccan soup and a couscous didn't leave room for a dessert so with much relief, I made it home for 22h15. Best laid plans and all that ..... 5 minutes later JJ was at the door, not as usual because he'd forgotten something but because Jacques had invited us to have a drink with Jim and Mags who were there for a farewell dinner. They won't be back until February so how could I refuse. What I did refuse though, was alcohol and dessert. Water was all I could face. 

And then there was the apéritif dinatoire chez moi. Spent the whole day, and I do mean all day, preparing tasty morsels for Jacques, Suzette, JJ, Jean and Françoise. Can't believe that there's not any photographic eveidence of all the effort I made. We were all flagging a bit by 10pm so it was an earlier evening than of late. Is it any surprise that my body is starting to feel the effects of too many dinners and apéritifs?

Weather: 23°, autumn sunshine and blue skies

22nd - 29th October:  JJ had left for family visits, Jacques and Suzette for Gruissan and Michel is still in Thailand so the social calendar was empty. What a relief to leave the excess aside for a while. Did however go to Collioure with Jean and Françoise on Sunday where we had quick trip around the much diminished market and a walk through the town which was decorated with pink umbrellas for " Octobre Rose". Had  coffee with Lucille and the boys overlooking the sea then took a stroll along the path at the sea's edge. 

Had a trip to Perpignan on the bus (took 6 hours all in) for one of my routine checks and had the nurse come to the house to give me my flu vaccination, had a coffee with Lynn and Ann at the bistro, tea with Nicole S. at her house and a walk with Françoise.

Before the week was out, Jacques was back and there was an invitation to his for dinner. It was a good evening with a different set of people; Christiane & Denis from Carpentras, here on a stopover and Camille, the youngest resident on the square, who strangely enough is from there also and found they had common connections. 

Weather: A drop of 1° to 21° by the end of the week. Sky is still blue and the sun still shining.

30th -31st October: The month ended quietly with the clocks changing and a good long walk with Françoise. Otherwise, life continues with much routine: treadmill and oldies gym for the body with exercises getting more complex. Shame my co ordination isn’t getting any better. Newspapers and magazines for the brain; tv and knitting for relaxation; a sprinkling of household chores because they can't be avoided any longer and a weekly visit to the village market  where the bar does a good trade even though there are less and less stallholders present.

Weather: Another 1° drop in temperature. Think it's time for the background poppies to give way to autumn leaves.