The Year is Marching on

Going back in time. . .

You can't live in Scotland and never have visited this beautiful part of the country with the long brooding road through Glen Coe where the Campbells murdered their hosts the MacDonalds and Ballachullish where an iron bridge spans the narrows between the sea lochs, Loch Leven and Loch Linnhe.  Too many visits with so many friends to recount.

1.3.24: 

The first day of my visit to Normandy brought rain and hail though it didn't stop us going out for a walk. 

The next day we drove to Fecamp for a cold and windy walk along the seafront. Bracing wasn't the word for it! So, consciences salved, we came inland for hot chocolate at the busy Benedictine cafe. Home with a couple of hours to get ready for tonight's visitors, Kathy & Sylvain, Sylvie and Christophe. More haste, less speed as they say; Valou, took a slice off her thumb with the mandoline, a much sought after Christmas present! Tanguy drove her to casualty while I sliced the potatoes for the gratin by hand. The occasional thought of buying one has been well and truly banished. They're lethal. Luckily she was seen quickly and was home just as we were ready to make a start on the apéro. 

I moved on to Le Havre to stay with Valérie which luckily was her day off  so toute de suite we gathered up Emma and walked into town for lunch at the trendy "Grand École". The architecture of this city gets more and more interesting. Just love the new block of flats that has gone up right next to the restaurant.

The next day came a morning of shopping, lunch at the traditional "Bistro des Halles" after an apéro chez elle of P'tit Punch and mini black pudding sausages from the Antilles in memory of her François. Christian was not forgotten either, it would have been his 80th. Our catch up continued over a cuppa back at hers and luckily as the rain had stopped, I had a much need walk back to the flat.

There was more catching up to do; dinner with the cousins Alain, Irene, Sylvie and Christophe and lunch with Lydie, Bernard and Janine.

All too soon, my last night in Normandy came and it was a lively one. Dinner at a new well quoted local bistro "Le Boullion" after an apéro chez Valérie. Everyone was in good form so the fun and laughter was plentiful!

Although the fields were sodden, it was windy and rain never far away, there were moments of sunshine and some lovely sunsets.

8.3.24:

Moving on day so took it easy apart from another jab. Finished watching Nordic Murders and was taken by this Japanese haiku, here in English from the German. "Hope does bloom in icy winter if friendship waters it". (Haiku would normally have 3 lines of 5/7/5 syllables) Walked up to the station in good time. No probs and was met by Elsa who'd been dispatched to meet me. Must admit, it's so much easier when someone else deals with your case.

 During the afternoon the news came that Stéphane had been found dead of natural causes in his apartment. We were joined for dinner by Elsa's partner so conversation moved on to other things. during which I sampled the delights of a "Daim" dessert from Ikea. I only know what I'm told. Funny, as I'd never heard of this chocolate before 10 days ago when Kob gave me some.

 

Went out for Sunday brunch with Frank and Stéphanie to the restaurant where Léo was the chef.  Choice of juice, choice of hot drink, mini croissants with butter & jam, my choice of 3 from 5 dishes avocado toasts, eggs Benedict with bacon, granola and yogurt bowl. Walked around " la Butte aux Cailles, an interesting and politically active neighbourhood. Street art and street names changed to the names of Palestinian writers and activists.

Up relatively early for this trip's cultural visit. Stopped at Pause Café at the top of the road for a coffee and pain au chocolate and was then ready to negotiate the métro to the Champs Élysées for a visit to the "Paris 1905 - 1925" exhibition at the Petit Palais. Despite the rain and despite the scaffolding at the front entrance, it was such a gem. The building was splendid, the gardens full of charm and the exhibits from the temporary and permanent collections were interesting and varied. 15€ well spent. Only disappointment was that the garden café was closed for renovation.

From there, armed with my Scottish waterproof and umbrella, I walked up one side of the Champs Élysées to the Arc de Triomphe and back down the other. Shades of thecGrand Old Duke, eh? Sadly, my shoes weren't waterproof so with my feet feeling the cold and damp, I headed underground for the journey home. 

In between these two main visits I walked locally along the canal, took it easy and thanks to Stéphanie and Frank, watched "Insomnia" with Al Pacino, Hilary Swank and Robin Williams and "Nadja" on Netflix. Neither of which I would have picked myself but which were both worth the watch. Annette Bening, Jodie Foster starred in the latter.

13.3.24:

Up for 7h, out heading for the train at 8h10. Hadn't looked forward to negotiating the métro but it was less crowded than I'd expected. I even remembered my way to the Gare de Lyon on foot so arrived in good time. Boarding the train was chaotic as there were two with one going on to Barcelona. Not clear which was which, people were going backwards and forwards (self included) to find the right place. For the first time I didn't have a solo seat and sod's law, I had an elderly (78) lady who talked even when I had earphones in. Had five minutes between scheduled arrival and the departure of the bus to Céret and another 5 minutes to get the onward bus to the village. Made them both and in Céret had a lad who helped me get my case into the hold and as luck would have it, he got off when I did so he got it out for me. For once in my life, I unpacked straight away then made a pot of tea to drink on the terrace in the sunshine. What bliss! Dinner of roast chicken legs with Michel and Kob and in bed by 22h30 to do a jigsaw, write my journal and enjoy the luxury. More bliss!

14.3.24:

Spent some time thinking about Stéphane as it was his commemoration today up in the Alps. Regretted that whichever way I tried to plan my journey back from there, it didn't work without an overnight stop somewhere and several connections hauling my largish suitcase; I had a rain coat to do wet weather but not to do snow. No suitable footwear either, so all in all I just couldn't face it. 

15.3.24 - 31.3.24 Home Sweet Home

Rapidly, I was back into the swing of village life.

A belated Women's Day event in the square took place in warm sunshine. Women had the pleasure of being served tea, coffee and cake (no doubt made and donated by women) along with a fair number of men who as usual had slid in. I didn't partake, preferring to go to the cafe with Françoise M and Nicole. I did, however buy some raffle tickets and what do you know, I won a prize . . . Chinese teapot and cups . . . Coals/Newcastle. Now I have 4 teapots of differing sizes. Must ask Lisa to translate; she speaks Chinese as well as Japanese.

Unlike years gone by I watched rather than participated in the Carnival. you can only admire all those paper flowers.

St Patrick's night included a set from Mike Harding, who you may remember from the 1970s as "the Rochdale Cowboy."

Meals with friends came along at regular intervals. Chez Jacques and chez JJ. No photos but you can imagine the scene as you've seen us around the table at theirs endless times. There was also an all British affair too, chez Ann and Terry. Good food and pleasant but more restrained company.

Twice chez Dali. Always a an evening with great, well presented food and numerous bottles.

A Russian meal chez Michel.

Had a couple of days out, too. 

A visit to Figueres market with Michel & Kob. Met Michel & Michèle plus their daughter and her boyfriend for a drink and DIY nibbles at the market café. We took up their invitation for an apéro of white sangria (with cava rather than white wine) at the Santos restaurant in La Jonquera. As the French say you can't drink without food so neither we did; pan tomaquet and serrano ham appeared on the table as well as we chatted in the sun.

Another day out over the border with Michel and Kob. Marsiam took up the spare seat in the car. First off we wended our way up to the Mother of God of the Mountains Sanctuary. Had a coffee on the terrace with a splendid view of the communications antennae. What an eyesore. 

Had a picnic at the St Llonenç de Sous monastery and then went down to Besalú for a cuppa a very quick look around.

You'll not be surprised to know that I watched a fair bit of tv resulting in some later than is sensible bedtimes, had several trips to local cafés, met Lisa for English conversation, Wordled. More surprisingly, I did some time on the treadmill. On a sadder note Nicole and I went to José's, (from the now defunct other village café), funeral in Céret. Afterwards we went to the Praline for tea but I wasn't impressed so it wasn't until I went to collect my new mini computer that spirits lifted. Oh, how I was looking forward to a machine that would react instantly. Colin helped me set it up though I did do some trouble shooting myself. Where IT is concerned, there's always some complication or another that comes along to drive you dotty! 

The last day of the month as well as being Easter Sunday, was also the day that the clocks changed. Lunch chez Michèle and Henri was traditionally Easter with some tender, delicious asparagus and roast lamb. I took some champagne that we had as an apéro and a whole orange cake for dessert. I was further spoilt with a chocolate rabbit. Caught the bus home, yes, there was even a service, feeling pretty pleased with the world.

 Weather: Unsurprisingly for a Mediterranean Spring, the weather was changeable. Lowest temperature was 13° and the highest 26°. Mostly blue sky and sunshine with the odd cooler days with a spattering of rain.

Nature in March:

Nature is blooming!

May 2023:

Jordan. Yes, I've been! Back in 1994. What a treat to ride on horseback through the gorge and see Petra before your eyes. Great memories of a friendly people, discovering another culture and the kindness of Mohamed and his wife who showed us around. There was so much to see and take in.

1.5.23:

No first of May would be complete without a sprig or two of lily of the valley to bring good luck throughout the year and it's a public holiday so what's not to like?

1st - 7th May: The time rolled by without anything particularly exciting happening. Entertained Jacques to dinner and then Nicole and Ken (+ Dora, Ken's Yorkie) no other comment than to say if you see one, you see the other. There were 5 trips to the café; 3 for coffee with different folk, once for a mediocre lunch with Patt from an hour away up the valley, who seems keen to have contact. and once for a glass of wine and tapas with Martine after she came out of Mass.

Did the usual stuff:

• TV: Rough Diamonds and Queen Charlotte on Netflix and absolutely nothing on the Coronation
• Wordle: Failed miserably one day but I don't tire of it
  
• Duolingo: Couldn't face another lesson of Spanish and the subtle pressures to keep going that I deliberately stopped. Quite something after 180 days in a row but I do so hate feeling obliged
• Jigsaws: The new obsession is lasting but maybe this, too, will go the same way as Duolingo sooner or later

Hiccups:

• Thérèse didn't appear so the house is dusty than ever.
  
• After working perfectly for a while, the tv is on the blink again so it's been back to watching, or should I say perservering, on the laptop
• This month's vernissage was a disappointment and not even interesting enough to take a photo. The works looked as if they'd been done in an unwilling OT group!  Not a nice thing to say but that's how it was.

Achievement:

• Brought Chitchat up to date. Four month's worth!😇

Last but not least:

Weather: Temperatures from 24° - 27°, sunshine, wind, cloud and light rain that was hardly worth the name.

 8th - 16th May: The 8th is another public holiday (end of 2WW) and there was an early morning call from.Jacques to wish me " bonne fête"; no, nothing to do with my name or birthday; say it out loud in a French accent and you'll understand! However, I gave the commemoration a miss in favour of coffee with Françoise and Linde.  The day finished at Thérèse and Joan's for discussion (personal, local, national and international; yes the dreaded coronation) and crêpes, (sweet and savoury).

 With all the little annoyances that life throws at you, it's great to have a day without hiccups. One such was Thursday. Met Lisa for her English session to which she came bearing a bag full of presents from China. Even better I learnt the she and André were going to the supermarket to buy a new gas bottle so they got one for me, too. Yippee! another task done; since the butcher died, there's nowhere in the village to buy a refill. Yes, you did read it right! Colin came a round in the afternoon to see if he could get my phone to reconnect to the internet and with one simple question (have you powered off the phone completely?), it was up and running again. So another headache sorted. The evening's dinner was sorted, too, as I was invited to Ann and Terry's along with Sue and Harry (holday homers). The walk there and back helped 100g to disappear from the scales, too. Every little helps as they say!

All short lived though as the next day Jacques organised an apéro on the square to celebrate his 75th. Turned out to be very convivial evening. Some of us were still there when the lights went off at midnight (energy saving measure) so it was back to Jacques' where he and Lolo entertained Suzette, Celine and I on the guitar. I called it a day at about 2h30 and had to go home in the pitch dark without a torch. Overshot and had to feel my way back just as a few drops of rain fell.  Anyone would have thought that I'd over indulged! Who? Me?

 Jacques was playing at a jazz concert two days later and was still not on top form. The singer has a superb voice though. Shame Françoise found it all too melancholy. No comment. This was the last but one mini concert (free) for the season; the association has show cased village artists with a variety of styles which have been much appreciated. The following apéritif, too.

I did offer hospitality, as well. Jacques came by for supper and Lone (Danish) & Barbara (English), who used to have homes here and are on holiday, came for dinner. It was good to see them both looking well. Jean and Françoise arrived unexpectedly and stayed for the apéritif part of the evening.

And what do you know? we actually had a full day's rain bringing snow again to the top of Canigou. Of course it's not enough and even tighter restrictions have come in along with dire warnings of the severity of the situation. Meanwhile in other parts of France ... wellies, umbrellas and raincoats are the order of the day! Hey ho! Apart from the day it rained (18°) temperatures have been in the mid 20's though feeling cooler in the chill wind. Not casting a clout applies here, too.

Can't leave you without having a rant. A luxury yacht came into Port Vendres for a couple of days. The 12 passengers had a crew of 26 to take care of them. Just obscene; especially when you know that the Pyrénées Orientales is the 4th poorest Département in France. 

17th - 20st May Twinning Visit: 

Mme "Last Minute" finally got her packing done after midnight but none the less she wasn't late for the departure to visit our "twins in Normandy. 

The bus stopped every two hours (obligatory pause for the driver) and by lunchtime we'd made it to a very well appointed service station in The Lot, where Nicole and I ate our picnic in the fresh air and had a short stroll afterwards to enjoy the lush scenery. No water shortage her and you wouldn't have known there was a motorway so close. Finally made it to our overnight stop just outside Tours in the early evening. A Brithotel, this chain was a new one to me; the room was comfortable, dinner was simple but good and the staff pleasant.

 After a varied buffet breakfast, we piled back into the bus for the short drive to the Villandry Château for (mercifully) a self guided visit.

In private ownership, it's well kept both inside and out with huge vases of fresh flowers, manicured gardens and woodland walks. The shop was a cut above the poorly stocked affairs you usually find; the French are at last catching on that there's money to be made from a captive audience. A coffee in the courtyard and then back in the bus to go into Tours for lunch. 

There was only a bit of time for a scamper round what looks like an interesting town as there was still a way to go. A warm welcome and an apéro was waiting for us when we arrived early evening. 

Next came a quick freshen up at Agnès's then it was off to Bruno and Christine's for dinner who were also hosting a couple from the village.

 Next day we had welcome free morning doing nothing special until lunch at the local bar/resto/pizzeria. A 3 course meal amid a lot of noise.

 Thus fortified, the bus took us to Bayeux for a guided tour of the cathedral, 

a round trip on the little tourist train 

and a audio tour of the tapestry. 

Evening dinner at the studio, celebrated 30 years of the twinning complete with sketches, 4 piece band for dancing and silly songs. Nicole and I ducked out just before 1am to walk home.

Another free morning and another morning spent pottering. Had unch at Agnès's with Bruno, Christine, Daniel and Dominique joining us. Didn't linger as we had to get to the bus for our afternoon excursion. A sail through the Marais de Cotentin with a commentary. Wildlife, history, a few funnies and a tasting of traditional treats: cider, thick rice pudding cooked for 5 hours, a fudge and a tiny cake kept us occupied without having to watch out for those with reduced mobility.

In the evening there was the "Official" dinner which meant speeches, an exchange of presents, and even richer fare. A line dance demonstration ended with Annie being taken off to hospital by the pompiers. Heart problem. Have never understood the interest in such regimented dancing.

Luckily there was a surprise skit a bit later on which lifted the mood. Antoine presided over a mock wedding ceremony between Odile (Bretteville) and Yves (village). Where to live needed a lengthy discussion before anything was signed. In the end it all boiled down to where the best care home was! Unscripted hilarity. Walked home and was in bed for just after midnight.

21st - 27th Changing Départments, Changing Beds: Sunday dawned chillier than other days and it was time to say our goodbyes. 32 came North and 30 left for an all day drive of 12.30h back to the village. Much to everyone's surprise Annie was among them. 

And then there were 2; Dominique headed towards Paris with her son who'd joined us for the visit and I took the train for a stopover with Jojo in Le Havre. Sparkling wine and scallops. How well she knows my tastes! 

 We spent the next day having a walk around the town after lunch at the Café Parisian. Have to say that the stark rectangular architecture of the town (classified by UNESCO) has grown on me. After a well deserved cuppa, I moved onto Valérie and Emma's for the rest of the week. My time was taken up while Valérie was at work with catching up with other members of the family. Christian's grandchildren: Maureen in her new flat (pretty smart) and Léonie, Nico and new baby Zoë (cute, of course) in their smart flat. Moving up a couple of generations to his cousins: 

there was Sylvie's birthday dinner along with her brother , sister and their partners and . . .

 lunch by the sea with Janine and Yves.

After a hard week at work, Valérie had time off so we took the Normandy bridge to Honfleur  

 

for lunch, a walk and an altogether good day out.

Preparations were underway for the weekend's "Festival of the Sea" so there were quite a few tourists already there but not so many to prevent us getting a free parking space. Pleasant place but oh so much bigger than when Christian and I went there. Have to say I fell in love with the place on the spot back then. Happy days, eh! 

At thd end of the afternoon, Valérie delivered me to my next lodgings at Christophe and Valérie's. Beginning to feel like an Amazon delivery! A cuppa and an apéro followed in quick succession with dinner en famille. Spent Saturday relaxing and catching up. Then it was off again to pastures new . . . 

28th-30th: Another Train, Another Département & Another Bed

A no hassle journey and Stéphanie was there to meet me and help negotiate the métro with my suitcase. BBQ lunch, a bit of a rest, then a walk along the canal to the "beach" bar, taking in a challenging expo, a defaced poster and look - alike snow on the way.

Up early (for a public holiday) to take the métro to "Bastille" to be immersed in Alphonse Mucha's work; Stéphanie's treat Czch by origin he was a prolificic painter of Art Nouveau. Posters, panels and the Slav Saga were projected onto the walls in the Grand Palais d'immersion. 

A kaleidoscope of colour and beautifly crafted images. Couldn't stop snapping. The spoiling didn't stop there, Frank treated us all to lunch at "Café Cosmos" in the 15th arrondisment.

And so, endeth my sojourn in the North with my suitcase and I making it to the Gare de Lyon in good time without mishap. A relief for a not very confident traveller nowadays. How time takes it's toll!  Journey takes 5 hours as it's not "TGV high speed" all the way. Even so compared to 10 hours+ by car, I can't complain. Nowadays, I treat myself to 1st class as it's not much more expensive with my seniors' card. It's worth it for larger seats, more legroom, more luggage space and less noise. Alighting from the train, the heat hit. Jacques, bless his little cotton socks, had done dinner for JJ and myself so there was plenty to catch up on and plenty of cava to help the vocal cords keep pace.

31st Last word: 

Plants had more or less survived though sadly the upstairs terrace had been colonised by some pigeons leaving a horrible clean up job to do. A task worse than the tax return which is looming. Nothing new in the village except the bar has a new sliding door to the restaurant. It's certainly different!

Weather: Temperatures were cool in Normandy, around 17° but there was sunshine and no rain! It was even hotter in Paris and even hotter again back home (28°) then on the last day of the month temperatures dropped to 22° and brought by a few drops of rain.