Getting out of the Village

 February 2023 (Sadly, have never made it to South America)

 The shortest month but with a lot going on. After a cool start, temperatures began to rise, galettes have given way to pancakes, the mimosa is finally blooming and the restaurant opened its doors again on the 1^st after a layoff of several weeks.

JJ, Martine and I continued our tradition of eating there on their reopening (as we do when they close for a break) and as is also the tradition there was cava and nibbles chez moi to kick off the evening.  This time we were joined by Jacques and Suzette. What with the café only being open in the mornings for the first two weeks and the colder weather pushing us inside, the square was dismally quiet; furthermore it then closed completely for 4 weeks. Everyone needs a break, n'est-ce pas?

There was another restaurant the next day though nowhere near the same price. 9 Suprem is Michel’s usual haunt after the market in Figueres. While it’s a lot less sophisticated, coming in at 15€90 for 3 courses and wine, it’s great value for the money. As if that wasn’t enough, at the end of the afternoon there were pancakes at Jacques’. Well, the 2^nd is the official day for them to be eaten.

And there were more pancakes at Michel's later in the month.

As usual, food has figured large this month. Meals at Jacques’, who has a load of wild boar in his freezer, to eat up, dinner at Babette & François’ where the conversation was about music, language and culture, another meal at the restaurant (Jacques’ treat), another meal in Figueres after the market but this time at Can Jordi with Lisa and her husband André, teas, coffees and apéros in various places with various people. In among it all I did do dinner for7 of us and the meat on my table was of the domestic variety .. roast leg of lamb.  The meal was by way of a "goodbye" to James & Beverly, a Kiwi/American couple who have sold their holiday home in the village. That's life here; a time comes to sell up and go back "home". It's not just the Brexit effect on 2nd home owners either. The pull of family increases with age or the loss of a partner. 

Also did dinner JJ and Jacques and this one for Thierry and Emon. Michel brought dessert of a "Tropézienne", a speciality of St Tropez which in this case had a nod to St Valentine. 

Ok moving away from food, I'll give the subject a rest for the time being in favour of  looking at some cultural happenings. 

Let's see; there was a vernissage of Jacques' and his friend's photos of famous Jazzmen.  Then there was an apéritif acompanied by, yes, some jazz.

 The next day there was some folk music, this time in, of all places, the local supermarket. Yes, really! The owners like live music but never have the opportunity to hear any, so Franc gave them their own mini concert. Quite a surprise for the Saturday morning shoppers, too.

Better weather and the buskers are out on market day.

We can do intellectual, too. Jacques and Yaneth did a presentation in Christian's room of their book "Bogotraces" . What was nice was that there was a complimentary copy already dedicated to me. Lunch at the café followed which heralded the inauguration of a "Café Litteraire". There were 17 of us and about half dozen people presented a book that had impacted on them. I kept schtum and listened.

 

Saw a couple of films; Tár - it was long and hard going and "Babylon". What can I say? Bizarre? Gross? Sad? Foolish? Long (over 3 hours). A BBC review said it was "a messy, dazzling epic that is often mesmerising". I beg to differ. Well, apart from one bit which came out of the blue and left me in stiches.

Exercise figured, too. Not just the treadmill either. Hit the road with Françoise and Timéo for a 8k walk starting from Fitou The "Vines et Garrigue" route also highlights wind turbines, views over the sea on one side, Canigou on the other and a number of "capitelles", dry stone pastoral shelters built from the end of the 18th century. Sadly, the village doesn't live up to the image that its bottles of red wine on Safeway shelves conjures up! Even worse, there was nowhere for thirsty hikers to get a drink on a Monday afternoon.

Other days out came may way, too, mostly with Michel and his friends Thierry and Emon.

 

 

Figueres market with Emon, Michel and Thierry followed by lunch with the Michèle & Michel in Empuriabrava. Needless to say we spent longer in each place than planned, so the proposed trip to Girona was abandoned. Only Michel thought it was doable. Anyone would think that they’re not likely to come back again! 

 

A drink in Banyuls was all we had time for after a trip to the Gendamérie to report an attempted break-in on Michel's car.

A picnic lunch at the monestry of St Llorenç de Sous up in the mountains over the border. Carried on up to the Sanctuary of the "Mother of God of the Mountains" where we found snow lying (no surprising at 1,100m+) in places and no possibility of a hot drink as all was closed. Found somewhere though in Besalù. 

The only other thing worth mentioning is that sanglier wasn't only on the plate. Coming home after tea with Nicole, five large wild boar ran out from a neighbour's garden. Made me jump, I can tell you. They're fearsome looking beasts.

Weather:

Mostly blue skies with temperatures between 9° and 20° and just a small spattering of rain on a couple of days

Chitchat is back!

January 2023:

India: A memorable two weeks in 1989 visiting all the must see places in Delhi and Rajistan followed by a more relaxing time staying on a houseboat on Lake Dahl. Just before Kashirmir was closed to tourists, we even managed to go out from Srinigar into the clear, crisp air of the Himalayas.

Fast forward to 2023:

Started the year well on the entertaing front by inviting Ann, Terry and JJ for New Years's day lunch (venison casserole) and then 3 apéritif dinatoire for other friends three days running. As exercise was needed  Françoise's proposition to walk above Collioure was welcome.

Met a man grazing his three donkeys on the slopes, workers pruning the vines and a childminder with a triple buggy. It was 17° and our picnic in the sun was a good recompense for all the effort made.

As you might remember, after the excess of the festive season, the abundance of calories continues in January with "Galettes des Rois" appearing on every table. 

Our street was no exception with seven different nationalities present in the square with as many galettes on offer. More were found at the Maire's New Year wishes evening, same at the Association's; fortunately the President's speech was a whole lot shorter than the Maire's. He did, however, announce that the Département was to be financing a roundabout at the entry to the village; something which has been demanded for over 10 years. There were more galettes at Jacques' after which the treadmill beckoned though sadly, I didn't manage a daily routine. 

A new food experience came along too. Yop and Ann did a Dutch lunch for 15 of us from the Association. A "chez nous" where members discover the food traditions and culture of another country or region of France in a homely setting is nowadays the only activity that interests me. A lot of cabbage, smoked sausage and beer were on the menu.

Hard on the heels of this meal was a more sophisticated one over the border in a restaurant new to me; what a treat it turned out to be especially as Maggie's son Mark treated me. On the way up to Le Perthus there were traces of snow on the verges at 273m and of course a good covering on the Pyrénées, to be seen. If you're looking for a creative mix of flavours served by attentive but unobtrusive staff in a setting oozing with character, "Tartana" ticks all the boxes. The Monday - Friday very reasonably priced lunchtime menu gave a choice of 3 starters, 7 mains and a number of desserts. Whatsmore, Alberto the owner/chef changes the menu daily. Taking time to come out from the kitchen to talk to customers, he spoke with us in English about the renovation of the building and coming to fruition of the restaurant or "my baby" as he called it! There was also a centennial oak to admire just down from the restaurant.

Tucked away just off the main road through Vilafant, Tartana is somewhere I look forward to taking friends like Martine, Jacques and JJ.

With falling temperatures, there were a few snow flakes over the village which is a lot lower that Le Perthus. Though as you can see from the photo, it melted before it hit the ground.

Otherwise, I did all the usual stuff : wordle (everyday), English with Lisa (once a week), online jigsaws (becoming an addiction), tv (goes without saying), Duolingo Spanish (helpful; just a shame it's S. American rather than Castillian).

 Of course, there was coffee, apéros and meals with friends, 

lunch time folk music at the café with Mary (Scottish) and Franc (Irish)

and splendid sunsets to be enjoyed; less enjoyable though some techie challenges came along which with a lot of persistence and after much hair pulling I'm glad to say were solved.

Weather: Started January with 20° which toward the 3rd week dropped to a very chilly 6° with a flurry of snow. Ended the month with 12° and fingers crossed for a rise in temperatures in February.

Happy New Year! Bonne Année!

 May peace, health, happiness and success in realising your projects come your way in 2023.

Christmas 2022

 25.12.22:

 

 May it be a peaceful and joyful time where ever you are! Love, Rx

Entertained Jacques and Lisa C and their Colombian visitors to lunchtime aperitifs. Beatrice, Nelson and Sarah. 

Yes, Nelson and yes, he was named after Horatio! Apparently, the upper classes there, give their children English names! Nice people; Beatrice is a stay at home Mum, Nelson is Professor of Forensic Medicine and Sarah is at school.

Wandered over to Ann and Terry’s for 14h30. Terry still not ready Ann counting to 10. Still, when he finally appeared, we ate drank and were merry! Had hardly had time to digest the venison with loads of veg and roasties, when supper of cold turkey appeared! Couldn’t even walk it off as Ann insisted on driving me home.

Weather: 18°, sunny

 

26.12.22:

Delivery advice said 6am – 8pm so I rose at 6 o’clock even though I knew in my heart, they wouldn’t arrive at that time. And neither they did. 4.20pm the stove top fan and electricity usage plug arrived. Yes, I finally made up my mind but the fan is for a wood burner rather than pellet burner and the instructions for the plug are in French that I can’t understand. However, had success with cooking my turkey joint in Mme Ninja.

Weather: 16°, sunny

27.12.22:

Walk with Françoise around Port Vendres; blue sky, crystal clear sea even some irises filled the eyes with pleasure . A picnic overlooking the sea did likewise for the stomach. Legs, however, knew that I hadn't been on the treadmill for a while. Apéro chez Jean and Françoise. Went on the bus; came back with J & F rather than have a lift with Jacques on his motorbike!

Weather: 17°, sunny

28.12.22:

The proposed trip down Barcelona way to see Lisa at speed rollerblading practice needed a rethink half way there. 

The session had been cancelled at the last moment. Decided to stop off in Girona for a bit of late afternoon sightseeing and a hot chocolate.

Made a short detour on the way back to find something to eat at the Café Concordia in Agullana, a multi-generational facility where there was a warm welcome and cheap and cheerful food. We won't mention the calories though! Oh yes, and the parcel that should have come tomorrow, arrived today! 

Weather: 13° and cloudy here, 18° and sunny in Girona. 

 

R.A.S (rien à signaler) during the last few days of the year. Roll on 2023!

 

A Low Key but fairly busy run up to the Festive Season

December 2022

I'm finally getting around to filling in the gap for this month on Chitchat on 4th May 2023. It will be an abridged version without any of the trivia of day to day life and only the rare anecdotes. Take it as read that there were rendez-vous at the café, meals with friends at theirs, at mine and at restaurants. There was also weekly  English conversation with Lisa. Sorry, can't resist this anecdote . . . I finally managed to bring Lisa, who is Japanese and Daniel who is American/Japanese together. What are the chances of two such people living in a small village at the tail end of France? It was a real pleasure to see them talking ninety to the dozen. 

The most importnat event on the village calendar in December is the annual Téléthon fund raiser for research into rare genetic diseases. By not involving myself this year in the Association's 2nd hand gift and accessories stall, I couldn't say "no" to helping with the "British" tearoom. My stint making tea came towards the end of the afternoon so the only thing I could do was to stay and help clear up; amazing how folk just melt away.

No chance to lie long the next day to rest my weary bones as Jean & Françoise were offering Linde & I a run down to Port Vendres to see the replica of the Nao Victoria, the Spanish galleon that in 1519 was the first to sail around the world. Interesting. Coffee in the sun with Jean & Françoise's daughter, Lucille and family and a wine tasting in the wine vaults next door.

A day out in Perpignan with Nicole, taking the early (well, 9am) bus. Stopped for a coffee at Café Catalogne, had lunch at Le Devil, menu up by 3€ and not as good, tea later in a very pleasant tearoom that was as good as the last time that we went. Not very Christmassy looking, is it?

Sorry, I feel another anecdote coming on again but it does show how molehills become mountains when you're on you're own. 😟 The electricity went off in the living area of the house and despite looking at the fuse box, I couldn’t see anything that had tripped. Faffed around for ages and finally went to bed but was so anxious about an electrical fault fire breaking out that I went back down and slept on the settee! JJ, who’d obviously been to spec savers found that indeed the switch had tripped, so with the push of a button all was restored. What a dummy, am I? I should have climbed onto a stool for a closer look. You live and learn.

By mid month the village was acknowledging that the festive season was on it's way. The Christmas market was well attended both by visitors and stallholders, the Seniors' Christmas box was being distributed, decorations were going up and Kevin organised music and a "Secret Santa" at the bar. Funny to think that the first Xmas market in the village was organised by Flo (who has long since left) and myself in 2007.

On a smaller scale, a bunch of us neighbours met up for a festive apéro on the square.

Thank goodness Françoise winkled me out for a walk up from the village. Canigou was as majestic as ever.

The last few days were busier. An apéro chez moi for Nicole and Mathilde, an very long lunch chez Jacques, carols at Chris and Jo's with a predominately Anglophone crowd and a pot luck apéro. .Sadly the mulled wine ran out; just what you don't want on a chilly evening outdoors. At least I went, which means I can body swerve the event for the next few years. 

The shortest night came a day early chez moi! Mark, Rachel and their friend Debbie came for dinner which was an hilarious affair. By the time we got to liquers, I was passed serving so as they were all on something different, each had their own bottle to hand. Finally made it to bed at 4h10 after putting the well dented bottles back in the cupboard. Yawn, yawn! 😴

Last but not least, Linde's daughter Eve, her husband Geoff, their two sons and some friends over from the States gave a short concert outside the bar. Flute, ukelele, keyboard, guitar and very funny songs written by Geoff with nary a word about Christmas.

The only thing left to do was scatter a few cards (fewer every year) and decs (no tree) around , pour a glass of wine (large) and watch Mary Berry with her hand up a turkey's bum! (Not much help when you're eating venison!)

Weather: A few cold days when temperatures went down to8° but it was dry and sunny, rising to 20° on 23rd. Fabulous sunsets along the way.