Changing the Tramontane for the Mistral

Exmoor on the Somerset/Devon border with its wild ponies and rough terrain, despite its beauty, was never a tourist destination for me. Cheddar Gorge, Wells Cathedral, picturesque thatched villages, Weston -super - Mare for our annual primary school outing, hitching and youth hostelling with sister Jill at the end of the 60's, the Glastonbury music festival during the 80's for even more grown up fun, Bath and around with Christian and John before him, were where my travels led me. Not forgetting memories of Cheddar cheese, cider, cream teas and for the most part good weather. 

1.4.24: April Fool is practised here, too although it's called «poisson d'avril» because a cut out fish used to be attached to the "victim's" back. Now it's more like uk. I was well caught by the article in the local paper reporting that the village had adopted a coat of arms. I had a good old rant about how awful it was but fell for it hook, line and sinker! How apt the expression is! 

Went walking with Françoise while Jean sat in the car at the Col de Portail overlooking Paulilles. Weather was pleasant and the 1½h helped me reach 10,000 steps for the first time in ages. Had a mediocre lunch in Argelès Port at the Esmorzar watching the sky for the threatened thunder storm that never came.Frittered away the rest of the afternoon and evening on the computer or in front of the tv without bothering to eat.

Weather: 21° H, 9° L; sunny, very blue sky with cloud coming over later.

The first part of the month passed much the same as usual. Apéros chez moi, chez Jean & Françoise and at the café and dinner chez Jacques and chez Martine with David and Laura and a return match hosted by Jacques and yours truly chez moi.

 More unusually, went off to Argelès with Michèle and Christian (the couple on the left) at Marie-André's invitation for her late partner, Jean's homage and an inaugural meeting of the association set up in his name to propagate the principles he held; in his political life as a three times Maire, his professional life as a sports teacher, his sporting life as an international rugby player and his private life as a decent bloke. Yep, that's right, elections are on the horizon.

17.4.24: Trip to Marseille

The night was short; 5 hours to be precise! Jean and Françoise picked me up and we had time in Perpignan for a coffee. Was windy, cold with rainy squalls. No problem with the train though buying a metro ticket was another story. Thank goodness for the young man with infinite patience who helped us out.Found the hotel fine and were well received. Room ok though nothing luxurious even for 120€ a night. Breakfast was included though. It was certainly well placed. Marseille is an expensive city. 4€50 for a coke and food at the Vieux Port was pricey and where we ate (le Grand Comptoir de Paris) mediocre. 

Walked up to the oldest house in Marseille (1535) and through the old le Panier district with its wall art, plants and dilapidation. The Rue and Place du Moulin which at one time had 40 windmills; now there are just two. One minus sails has been converted into a house; the other, of which there was no sign. 

 Walked back down to the Hospice de la Charité, founded for the homeless and infirm in 1670 and ran across a young Kurdish couple having their wedding photos done. The bride wore a red gown and the groom a black suit. Next came the imposing Cathedral Major (1852) overlooking the sea. By the time we got back to the port we were eager for a seat and a cuppa. Part of the road was closed off as filming was going on. After a wee rest back at the hotel we went in search of tapas and a drink. Settled for a local cafe, "O Monaco". Wine, G&T and a skimpy platter of charcuterie set us back 20€. Wandered home, buying fruit on the way for an early night; well, relatively for me. 

Weather: 18°H, 10°L; Marseille ~ sunshine, wind and cloud

First Impressions: More expensive than here, charming young men, helpful people and frequent police sirens day and night. Did not feel threatened despite the city’s violent reputation. 

18.4.24: Museums

First stop after our breakfast (the jam wasn't right for my fellow traveller) in the hotel, was Uniqlo so that Françoise could buy a bonnet as she was cold. Today, it was: after a hot chocolate and a seat for Françoise, who had woken every hour, we tackled le Tour de St Jean (13th century) and le Mucem Mediterranean Museum. The wind made walking hard going and finding our way around was not straightforward. We did the temporary expo of modern art and the grand meze about the Mediterranean diet, agriculture and the effects of climate change. Françoise gave up at this point while I whizzed around the "popular" artand the use of different materials in everyday life room. Walked a little way back along the Old Port for lunch and both of us went for tagliatelle carbonara.

Back to where we were to visit the underwater caves (a reconstruction) discovered by Crosquer which was n°1 on Françoise's wish list. There was a fair bit of waiting time to be taken 37mdown under the sea to start the audio guide visit in slow speed waltzers. Expensive at 18€ (no pensioner's reduction) but interesting and lovely to behold. Françoise got in and out of the lift saying she couldn't stand the number of people. She reappeared, however, having been brought down by a member of staff. We were within reach of getting into a "car" when she decided again to drop out. Glad I stayed the course. At the end there was a film about the discovery, a display of the animals featured in the cave paintings, a panoramic view and the gift shop. Walked back to the hotel for a cuppa.

Took the hotel manager's advice regarding our evening's entertainment and went in search of the Place des Huiles on the othe side of the vieux port. Much more my kind of feel with a lively atmosphere enhanced by the anticipation in the run up to the O.M. v Benfica kickoff. This side of the port seemed more local than tourist. Came across " The Queen Victoria" which Françoise was keen to go to; it, too, was busy. Well, there were 12 screens spread through the different rooms. We shared a cheese and charcuterie board which at 20€ was good value. Staff were friendly and our waiter brought us each a wrapped biscuit that would normally be served with coffee as a thank you for the tip. A nice wee touch.

Our trip back was marked by a major reduction in the wind speed and two sightings of rats (1, 2+1) scurrying across the streets. This journal entry done and ready to snuggle down by midnight. And yes, O.M. won, 4:2 on penalties

Weather: 16° H, 9° L; sunny wind at 90km/h

19.4.24: All aboard!

No 2 on Françoise's to do list was to go up to Notre Dame de la Garde (la bonne mère/goodmother), like many other pensioners, on the little tourist train. Even though the wind had dropped, it was still a bit chilly, so out came the bonnet. It didn't help that the road was bumpy as we rattled along "too fast without stopping" (according to Françoise) along the way so that we could take in the view .The Fort of La Garde was built in 1524; some of the ramparts still exist from where you can take in 360° views of the islands, the city and O.M.'s stadium. The ornate basilica was built in the 2nd half of the 19th century. We started off  with a hot drink stop in the modern dining room. 

 Thus fortified with hot chocolate, we made our way up the steps to the   basilica where an amazing decor awaited us and a stiff neck resulted from having to take in the ceilings. 

Taking the wee train back was not an option so we walked back, passed the American World War ll tank the Jeanne d'Arc that was involved in the liberation of Marseille, down through the Jardin de la Colonne stopping at the "Four des Navettes" founded in 1781 for Françoise to buy some of their speciality biscuits for the family. Legend has it that these hard sweet biscuits were originally created by sailors’ wives who offered them as offerings at the Basilica, seeking protection for their husbands at sea. The shape of the biscuit resembles a small boat (navette means “shuttle” or “small boat” in French), which is believed to symbolize the safe return of sailors. Had a quick look at the uninspiring Abbey of St Victor founded in 5th century and fortified in 14th century. Then we ambled down to the port and for a change, ate on the south shore at "The Marine".

Ceasar salad for me and Soupions and chips (too oily) for Françoise. Our waiter kept the terrace entertained with his chat as did the table of O.M. supporters from Anjou next to us. The patter was good and my salad copious. The youngest and perhaps the most well oiled said «au revoir» to me in typical French tradition! Sun was shining so we sat out on the Rue Saint Saëns until it was time to go back to the hotel to collect our baggage. Staff were as helpful as usual and Leila the manageress/proprietor came to say goodbye. 

Made it to the station in good time with chivalry coming to the fore from stronger arms willing to help Françoise with her case.It being the start of the school Spring holiday our train was full all the way to the terminus in Bordeaux. All passed without mishap and the 5 minute connection at Narbonne worked. Jean was at Perpignan to meet us and I was chez moi about 22h well pleased with the trip despite it being punctuated by a few episodes of negativity. A laugh combined with a Gallic shrug saw me through!

Weather: Marseille: 21°, sunshine and white cloud, windier in the afternoon.

20.4.24 - 25.4.24: Well, didn't hang around resting. Apéro chez moi, Saturday evening with JJ, Jean & Françoise.

La Fête de St Jordi on Sunday. Changed days from when Flo and I organised the event with people in medieval costume, a fire eater, stalls, decorations; won't bore you with more. There were however, books and roses in accordance with tradition, sardane dancing and Catalan songs. Oh yes, of course there was an apéritif laid on by the Mairie. Not many people, so as I said changed days.. Monday, lunch at Jacques' followed by a trip to La Jonquera to battle the wind and do some shopping. Only wanted some rubber gloves and a bottle of martini. Came back with three frying pans of different sizes and three bottles of martini that were on offer. Two litre bottles and a free 70cl bottle for just shy of 14€! And I did find some rubber gloves, too. Tuesday there was a day out with Lynne.

Lunch at the Bistrot des Caves (good) and a visit to said Byrrh caves across the road. A family enterprise started in 1866. A popular aromatised wine apéritif made from red wine, mistelle (a slightly fermented white wine to which brandy has been added) and quinine, marketed in bygone days as a "hygienic drink." 

Their other claim to fame is the huge oak vat which took 3 years to build and house, that could hold 1,000,200 litres.

A walk around Thuir followed but we didn't stop for either tea or end up buying anything. That evening there was a pink full moon so called by native Americans because a pink wild flower blooms in April not because it looks pink. 

 

That was true but the photo I took turned out pink; how spooky is that? Wednesday, over to Dali's for lunch with JJ, Frederic and Éric at midday.

Apéro with champagne, œufs mimosa garnished with caviar, seafood rice, cheese platter and a splendid dessert. Five bottles of red, 1 of champagne and a coffee laced with rum later. I arrived home clutching a tupperware of leftovers at 19h45. Meals at Dali's are certainly a test of your staying power to say the least. Thursday, I went off to Figueres with André and Lisa.

Started with a coffee at the Café de Paris on the Rambla. Didn't have an apéro at the market café but did take a photo to send to Michel. Had a pleasant lunch not far from the museum and made our way home for 16h30.

26.4.24 - 30.4.24: 

Three days of respite from over indulgence and in order to try and undo some of the damage I found time for some sessions on the treadmill until an invitation to join JJ and Dali for a couscous lunch in La Jonquera. That was after a couple of apéros at Dali's that is. We got spicy olives on arrival at the restaurant and mint tea and delicious Moroccan pastries for dessert, compliments of the house. Pleasant service, good food, a very reasonable price in genial company; there are worse ways to spend a Sunday! We were prudent enough to just drop Dali off without out entering! You'll realise by now the "dangers" that would entail!

The month ended with mixed fortunes. On the positive side I found a home for the ink cartridges and we've had rain; the raincoat impulsively bought in Scotland last year served me well. Dinner at Anna & Gérard's was a pleasant affair and like Cinderella, I was home for midnight. On the negative side, the heavy rain and a lack of forethought on my part, brought a small leak in one of the bedrooms. Fortunately, it was easily rectified. More annoyingly, my 14 year, not excessively used oven, has developed a mind of it's own. Starts up and sometimes hops from one temperature to another. Decided it was a bit risky to leave on so have switched it off at the junction box as the plug is inaccessible. That entails a rethink as to where to put the kettle as the plug is on the same wiring. No comment. Not very convenient and I had to buy a lighter for the gas hob. Think a visit to Boulanger, the local electrical store is a must sometime soon. and I've two friends who are not in good places and are in need of a listening ear. Finishing on  an upbeat note, Françoise asked if I'd like to join her on a trip to Argelès tomorrow morning. It's a public holiday and rain's not forecast until the afternoon. "Yes", said I; tout de suite!

Weather: the month stated with a temperatures of 21° during the day/ 9° overnight and ended with 18° during the day/ 12° overnight, In between the highest daytime temperature was 30° and the lowest overnight temperature was 6°. There were strong winds reaching 95km/h, sunshine and daily rain on and off from the 26th.

Notes of Nature:

The Year is Marching on

Going back in time. . .

You can't live in Scotland and never have visited this beautiful part of the country with the long brooding road through Glen Coe where the Campbells murdered their hosts the MacDonalds and Ballachullish where an iron bridge spans the narrows between the sea lochs, Loch Leven and Loch Linnhe.  Too many visits with so many friends to recount.

1.3.24: 

The first day of my visit to Normandy brought rain and hail though it didn't stop us going out for a walk. 

The next day we drove to Fecamp for a cold and windy walk along the seafront. Bracing wasn't the word for it! So, consciences salved, we came inland for hot chocolate at the busy Benedictine cafe. Home with a couple of hours to get ready for tonight's visitors, Kathy & Sylvain, Sylvie and Christophe. More haste, less speed as they say; Valou, took a slice off her thumb with the mandoline, a much sought after Christmas present! Tanguy drove her to casualty while I sliced the potatoes for the gratin by hand. The occasional thought of buying one has been well and truly banished. They're lethal. Luckily she was seen quickly and was home just as we were ready to make a start on the apéro. 

I moved on to Le Havre to stay with Valérie which luckily was her day off  so toute de suite we gathered up Emma and walked into town for lunch at the trendy "Grand École". The architecture of this city gets more and more interesting. Just love the new block of flats that has gone up right next to the restaurant.

The next day came a morning of shopping, lunch at the traditional "Bistro des Halles" after an apéro chez elle of P'tit Punch and mini black pudding sausages from the Antilles in memory of her François. Christian was not forgotten either, it would have been his 80th. Our catch up continued over a cuppa back at hers and luckily as the rain had stopped, I had a much need walk back to the flat.

There was more catching up to do; dinner with the cousins Alain, Irene, Sylvie and Christophe and lunch with Lydie, Bernard and Janine.

All too soon, my last night in Normandy came and it was a lively one. Dinner at a new well quoted local bistro "Le Boullion" after an apéro chez Valérie. Everyone was in good form so the fun and laughter was plentiful!

Although the fields were sodden, it was windy and rain never far away, there were moments of sunshine and some lovely sunsets.

8.3.24:

Moving on day so took it easy apart from another jab. Finished watching Nordic Murders and was taken by this Japanese haiku, here in English from the German. "Hope does bloom in icy winter if friendship waters it". (Haiku would normally have 3 lines of 5/7/5 syllables) Walked up to the station in good time. No probs and was met by Elsa who'd been dispatched to meet me. Must admit, it's so much easier when someone else deals with your case.

 During the afternoon the news came that Stéphane had been found dead of natural causes in his apartment. We were joined for dinner by Elsa's partner so conversation moved on to other things. during which I sampled the delights of a "Daim" dessert from Ikea. I only know what I'm told. Funny, as I'd never heard of this chocolate before 10 days ago when Kob gave me some.

 

Went out for Sunday brunch with Frank and Stéphanie to the restaurant where Léo was the chef.  Choice of juice, choice of hot drink, mini croissants with butter & jam, my choice of 3 from 5 dishes avocado toasts, eggs Benedict with bacon, granola and yogurt bowl. Walked around " la Butte aux Cailles, an interesting and politically active neighbourhood. Street art and street names changed to the names of Palestinian writers and activists.

Up relatively early for this trip's cultural visit. Stopped at Pause Café at the top of the road for a coffee and pain au chocolate and was then ready to negotiate the métro to the Champs Élysées for a visit to the "Paris 1905 - 1925" exhibition at the Petit Palais. Despite the rain and despite the scaffolding at the front entrance, it was such a gem. The building was splendid, the gardens full of charm and the exhibits from the temporary and permanent collections were interesting and varied. 15€ well spent. Only disappointment was that the garden café was closed for renovation.

From there, armed with my Scottish waterproof and umbrella, I walked up one side of the Champs Élysées to the Arc de Triomphe and back down the other. Shades of thecGrand Old Duke, eh? Sadly, my shoes weren't waterproof so with my feet feeling the cold and damp, I headed underground for the journey home. 

In between these two main visits I walked locally along the canal, took it easy and thanks to Stéphanie and Frank, watched "Insomnia" with Al Pacino, Hilary Swank and Robin Williams and "Nadja" on Netflix. Neither of which I would have picked myself but which were both worth the watch. Annette Bening, Jodie Foster starred in the latter.

13.3.24:

Up for 7h, out heading for the train at 8h10. Hadn't looked forward to negotiating the métro but it was less crowded than I'd expected. I even remembered my way to the Gare de Lyon on foot so arrived in good time. Boarding the train was chaotic as there were two with one going on to Barcelona. Not clear which was which, people were going backwards and forwards (self included) to find the right place. For the first time I didn't have a solo seat and sod's law, I had an elderly (78) lady who talked even when I had earphones in. Had five minutes between scheduled arrival and the departure of the bus to Céret and another 5 minutes to get the onward bus to the village. Made them both and in Céret had a lad who helped me get my case into the hold and as luck would have it, he got off when I did so he got it out for me. For once in my life, I unpacked straight away then made a pot of tea to drink on the terrace in the sunshine. What bliss! Dinner of roast chicken legs with Michel and Kob and in bed by 22h30 to do a jigsaw, write my journal and enjoy the luxury. More bliss!

14.3.24:

Spent some time thinking about Stéphane as it was his commemoration today up in the Alps. Regretted that whichever way I tried to plan my journey back from there, it didn't work without an overnight stop somewhere and several connections hauling my largish suitcase; I had a rain coat to do wet weather but not to do snow. No suitable footwear either, so all in all I just couldn't face it. 

15.3.24 - 31.3.24 Home Sweet Home

Rapidly, I was back into the swing of village life.

A belated Women's Day event in the square took place in warm sunshine. Women had the pleasure of being served tea, coffee and cake (no doubt made and donated by women) along with a fair number of men who as usual had slid in. I didn't partake, preferring to go to the cafe with Françoise M and Nicole. I did, however buy some raffle tickets and what do you know, I won a prize . . . Chinese teapot and cups . . . Coals/Newcastle. Now I have 4 teapots of differing sizes. Must ask Lisa to translate; she speaks Chinese as well as Japanese.

Unlike years gone by I watched rather than participated in the Carnival. you can only admire all those paper flowers.

St Patrick's night included a set from Mike Harding, who you may remember from the 1970s as "the Rochdale Cowboy."

Meals with friends came along at regular intervals. Chez Jacques and chez JJ. No photos but you can imagine the scene as you've seen us around the table at theirs endless times. There was also an all British affair too, chez Ann and Terry. Good food and pleasant but more restrained company.

Twice chez Dali. Always a an evening with great, well presented food and numerous bottles.

A Russian meal chez Michel.

Had a couple of days out, too. 

A visit to Figueres market with Michel & Kob. Met Michel & Michèle plus their daughter and her boyfriend for a drink and DIY nibbles at the market café. We took up their invitation for an apéro of white sangria (with cava rather than white wine) at the Santos restaurant in La Jonquera. As the French say you can't drink without food so neither we did; pan tomaquet and serrano ham appeared on the table as well as we chatted in the sun.

Another day out over the border with Michel and Kob. Marsiam took up the spare seat in the car. First off we wended our way up to the Mother of God of the Mountains Sanctuary. Had a coffee on the terrace with a splendid view of the communications antennae. What an eyesore. 

Had a picnic at the St Llonenç de Sous monastery and then went down to Besalú for a cuppa a very quick look around.

You'll not be surprised to know that I watched a fair bit of tv resulting in some later than is sensible bedtimes, had several trips to local cafés, met Lisa for English conversation, Wordled. More surprisingly, I did some time on the treadmill. On a sadder note Nicole and I went to José's, (from the now defunct other village café), funeral in Céret. Afterwards we went to the Praline for tea but I wasn't impressed so it wasn't until I went to collect my new mini computer that spirits lifted. Oh, how I was looking forward to a machine that would react instantly. Colin helped me set it up though I did do some trouble shooting myself. Where IT is concerned, there's always some complication or another that comes along to drive you dotty! 

The last day of the month as well as being Easter Sunday, was also the day that the clocks changed. Lunch chez Michèle and Henri was traditionally Easter with some tender, delicious asparagus and roast lamb. I took some champagne that we had as an apéro and a whole orange cake for dessert. I was further spoilt with a chocolate rabbit. Caught the bus home, yes, there was even a service, feeling pretty pleased with the world.

 Weather: Unsurprisingly for a Mediterranean Spring, the weather was changeable. Lowest temperature was 13° and the highest 26°. Mostly blue sky and sunshine with the odd cooler days with a spattering of rain.

Nature in March: