Highlight of the Year!

 Off to the Basque Country 

 15.6.21: Started from home at 9am. Coffee stop just before Toulouse and lunch off the autoroute in Pau.  Arrived at our airbnb studio flat in St Jean de Luz at 4pm. Modern and absolutely fine. Following a wind down after the stresses of the route, we set off on the 10 minute walk ( Martine has short legs) via the small port to explore the old town (including the church of St John the Baptist where Louis XIV was married) followed by a strolll along the prom. Lots of independent shops, tourist shops and eating places. Ended up at the Basque Tavern where we had a reasonable meal and friendly chat with our neighbours who were down from the Lot. He rears ducks and was passionate about his job; his wife works in a (upmarket, I imagine) clothes shop.

Weather: 30°, (35° at home), sunny

16.6.21: Off we went for the short drive to Espelette, where the red peppers come from. It goes into everything! Even the outside of the houses are decorated with strings of them. Fell lucky as the market was on. The food market was interesting with its locally produced offerings, especially the Basque sheep's cheese. Very tempting but not the best idea to have it sitting all day in the car. Stayed for a coffee and then went on to Itxassou, a much smaller village for a walk around. We found a Fronton, used for playing the Basque game 'Pelote' in the centre and were amazd by the sight of over 20 black kites flying overhead. We didn't see however, anywhere that grabbed us for lunch so we carried on to Cambo where there are thermal baths catering for people who come ( thanks to the health service) for a 3 week "cure". This one deals with respiratory problems and rhumatism. Luxuriant grounds and a restaurant, the " Pavillion Bleu" open to the public. Sadly for us, they were fully booked but the receptionist suggested " le Chipito" in the town. A much simpler affair but we both enjoyed our well garnished salads. After lunch we wandered into the little park next door; me to write some postcards, Martine for a snooze.

 

Came home and after a a reviving cuppa we went back into the town to explore another part of St Jean. Walked a fair bit and decided to try Paxaran, a Spanish (Navarre) Basque sloe brandy apėritif albeit an early one, it only being 17h. Walked some more, ending up on the Place Louis XIV, where his house is now the Mairie by the port, for rosé and tapas. Made it home early was the area is on an amber storm alert.

 Weather: 33° (32° at home) very hot

17.6.91: It rained heavily in the night and there was unimpressive thunder and lightning in the distance however first thing the rain was off. Even though we knew the rain would be back, set off anyway for St Sebastian (aka Donostia) over the border. Found an underground parking by the 5* Hotel Marie Christina. Pretty imposing. Walked along the footpath looking down on the sea where from time to time people were taken by surprise by the crashing waves. Of course the camera was never in the right place at the right time to capture the spectacular images! 

Gave the climb up Mt Igueldo a miss as did everyone else. After a coffee we contented ourselves with wandering through the old town taking in 19th century Constitution Square with its numbered windows; the numbers above each one of the windows of the houses were in a previous life the bullring boxes from where you could watch the bullfights, the covered market, Santa Maria church with the most amazing 18th Neapolitan creche. Found a pinxos (tapas) bar, the Taverna Alatar, for lunch after which we wandered some more, this time down to the sheltered marina and on to the Good Shepherd church but didn't go in. By this time it was raining more heavily so we decided to head home by way of the motorway. 

Took advantage of a dry interval to go to the local superette to buy in some provisions for our supper as going out was not on the cards. Thus we had the opportunity to drink the bottle of cava I'd brought and to try a Gâteau Basque. In the end up we didn't eat what we'd bought as we'd tucked in to too many savoury biscuits.

Weather: 21°, clammy. Rain more on than off. Heavy at times.

18.6.21:The day brightened up as it progressed which was just as well as we were scheduled to visit Bayonne. When we finally got there (slow moving traffic) we started off with a  coffee at the Café du Théatre and then wandered around this very pleasant historic town ~ river, timbered buildings, Notre Dame, a 13th century church, fort, arcades and narrow streets. Had lunch at Café Chala after which we hit the road for the long drive back having the misfortune to hit Toulouse at rush hour. Arrived home at about 19h15. Tired but glad to be back sleeping in my own bed.

 Weather: 31° overcast on arrival, 24° (Bayonne), sunny