A Welcome Change

9th September - 21 September:

 Armed with my Senior's railcard, I set off suitcase and courage in hand to get myself up to Normandy. Negotiated the metro from the Gare de Lyon to the Gare St Lazare changing at République; can't you just imagine the clap on the back I'm giving myself. It was an all day affair only arriving at Valérie's in Le Havre at 20h. A glass or two of cava soon pepped me up.

The week was spent catching up with family and friends; the main event being Jean and Hugo's joint 20th birthdays which was the motivation for me making the effort to travel. A really good do and to my relief I didn't feel like a spare part. Several of us went back to the hall the next day to clear up and tuck into the copious leftovers.

Spent a whole day with Jojo whose husband, a colleague of Christian's had died a couple of weeks before.  A good drenching during our seafront walk in the morning was followed by lunch at hers, lots of chat, lots of shopping and a reviving refreshment al fresco (yes, even in Normandy) in the Peret neighbourhood which has a UNESCO classification. 

The day after I had lunch with Lydie and Bernard at their flat and the one after that with Janine and Yves by the sea. Lydie and Janine are Christian's cousins with whom he spent the first few years of his life but their calendars were such that we couldn't all meet together. Evenings Valérie and I stayed in relaxing and chatting.

 Next came a couple of nights with Christophe, Valérie and their family out in the countryside. An outing to the market, a long walk in the afternoon sun and evenings in completed this first part of the trip making it varied and enjoyable.

Pantin on the outskirts of Paris chez Frank and Stéphanie was the last stop on the itinerary. Family time, me time and lots of things to see and do. 

 Locally, I walked and sampled a couple of cafés along the Canal de L'Ourq, 2 minutes away from the house which is fast becoming gentrified with prices to match. The Commune kicked off its cultural season with an amazing tightrope walker who performed for 50 minutes without either a safety net or wire. Was just breathtaking and just like here, well, all over France, the evening ended with a a drink and petit fours. 

 Had Sunday brunch in a Turkish restaurant just along from the house and an apéritif on a converted barge with a friend of Frank and Stéphanie who is part of the "Green" opposition on the  Council. Needless to say, discussion was wall to wall politics. 

Going farther afield, I took myself off to Montmartre to play the tourist and enjoy the sunshine while the family went on a pre arranged trip to Parc Asterix. I had the best deal, methinks. 

Another solo visit, as the family were all either at work, school or Uni, to the Musée Marmottan which houses many of Monet's and other Impressionists' works. The temporary exhibition that had just opened was by Gustave Kronyer, a Danish painter. Top left, middle and bottom right are examples. Too many people, nowhere to sit and linger which was, of course, the object made it less than a satisfactory experience. Spent time sitting in a nearby park writing postcards, did some very stylish window shopping and had lunch in an Italian restaurant.

Another day, another exhibition. This time the venue was the Philamonia at the Parc de la Vilette and this time it was photos rather than paintings. The 15 minute walk along the canal did us good after the morning's copious brunch. Such a pleasure. There was room to wander and take time in front of the photos documenting "Amazonia", a project that took 7 years to realise, really showed the undoubted talent of Sebastiao Salgadao. The exhibition was accompanied by music written especially by Jean Michel Jarre. What a bonus!

Taking of bonuses ... after we'd finished the exhibition, we took the lift to the 9th floor to the roof top (a first for Frank & Stéphanie) for views of Paris (Eiffel Tower and Sacré Cœur) and Pantin (Grands Moulins former flour mills now offices).

 

Yet another exhibition. This time the much talked about Botticelli exhibition at the Jacquemart André Museum on the Bvd Haussemann in the upmarket 8th Arrondissement. Stéphanie had taken a day off to accompany me and as it happens JJ was in Paris at the same time so we met up there for lunch before we all did the visit. 

 The other talking point of the moment was the wrapped Arc de Triomphe which was only 10 minutes walk or so from the Museum. It took 25,000sq m of material to do the job and had been the brainchild of the artist, Christo 60 years ago and only came to fruitition a year after his death. Left me cold but there have been over a 1m visitors and others have found it sensational. JJ came back with us to Pantin for a good dinner and over night stay.

 

JJ and I set off at 6h30 for the long drive home. Stopped for hot chocolate and pastries, for lunch which was awful, and at the Pont de Milhau for a walk up to the viewpoint and to have a quick visit to the exhibition. Another amazing piece of art. Arrived home in sunshine without a hitch at 17h. Glad to be back to an empty suitcase and big bed.