On the Tourist Trail

If it hadn't been for the red and yellow leaved vines it would have been hard to believe that this trip took place in November. Haven't been so far from home for ages so it was good to get away for a couple of days.  Françoise is easy to be with, knowledgeable and good company but it should have been Christian I was sharing the experience with. The imaginery postcard I sent him went with the traditional phrase "having a good time, wish you were here!"
Click on the link if you're interested in seeing a few more photos.
https://picasaweb.google.com/114284735716067114333/WonderboxTrip#6216385568339283298

 11.11.15:

Armistice day but for once there was no ceremony for me (which apparently was noticed) instead Françoise and I spent the morning looking around Fontfroide, a Cistercian abbey. A "must-do" in the area.  http://www.fontfroide.com/
Decided to go for a late lunch by the sea and ended up at Peyriac sur Mer. Found a great bar full of character and we were lucky to get a table with all the tourists and locals off work for the public holiday thronging the place. http://www.tripadvisor.fr/Restaurant_Review-g1726269-d3467374-Reviews-O_Vieux_Tonneau-Peyriac_de_Mer_Aude_Languedoc_Roussillon.html#photos
The village overlooks an enclosed body of water with a number of small islands, a few flamingos and little wooden walkways that just shouted at you "come and walk". We therefore, joined a constant stream of inter-generational families out for a stroll and found a bench to sit on in the sun for a moment's contemplation.
Came home without stopping, arriving for 5pm. All the way back I was debatting with myself as to whether I'd go to the concert in the church or just dump my bags and flop. In the end, I opted for the concert of choral music which ranged from the Renaissance to the 20th century and spanned 3 continents. Glad I went and there was still time to flop.
Weather:
24° sunshine and blue skies

10.11.15:
After a copious, tasty breakfast at 8.30am, we took ourselves off to a Medieval village called http://www.lagrasse.com/en/index.php 

Lagrasse.
First of all a coffee stop as Françoise  has a a morning coffee habit too; this meant that we arrived at the tourist office just as it was opening. What a treat we had looking at amazing remenants of painted ceilings, some of them with quite irreverant images! Then a look around the church and a wander through the narrow streets stopping off to look at the 14th century market hall and at an upholsterer's shop. Not as strange as it sounds. Next to the workshop there was a couple of rooms stuffed with bric-a-brac and all sorts of curios including a series of ornaments of dressed up dogs (not sure how to describe them) that you'll see in the photo album if you click the link at the top of the page. There were also a couple of fat cats which I though that the taxidermist had been let loose on but no they were real. Gave me quite a start when they moved ever so slightly.
Our last port of call was the abbey (14th century), outside the town walls accessed by a 13th century bridge over the river. Well, there was no way that the Benedictine monks could be exposed to the local folk with their ungodly ways hence the stand alone site.
After all that we were lucky to get lunch on the tree lined promenade outside the walls on the otherside of the village before the chef went home. In need of a bit of rest we didn't linger prefering to get back and stretch out on a sun lounger in the garden and then saw one of the sunsets that give  the property its the name.
After a late lunch we weren't that hungry so just went out in the evening to a nearby village for a simple salad and then an early night.
Weather:
24° blue skies and sunshine

9.11.15:

Bag packed, apéritif organised complete with lemon for the G and T and things to nibble, coat on ready to go for 10am. The weather was absolutely splendid; warm golden autumnal sunshine and a clear road through to Narbonne. Started off at "Les Halles" (opened in 1901) which being a Monday most of the stalls were closed. Walked from there along the canal to the old part of the city. First looked at the shops and wandered around getting our bearings. As it was midday by this time and the museums were closed, there was nothing else to do but have lunch in "Le Mallocolo", which I'd spotted on "Tripadvisor". Small and decorated with souvenirs from the owners' travels with a menu to match, it was a great wee find. http://www.tripadvisor.fr/Restaurant_Review-g187155-d2337253-Reviews-Le_Mallicolo-Narbonne_Aude_Languedoc_Roussillon.html
Fortified by a good lunch, we attacked the Museum of Art and History housed in the 17th century Archbishops' appartments. Painted ceilings and various works of art  through the ages including Breughels and a collection of orientlal paintings in an arabic setting which was just delightful. Soft music, settees and the sound of a fountain created a real oasis of peace. All we were missing was the mint tea.
Next came a chronocologically backward trip to see the prehistoric and Roman collections (the Via Domitia runs through the city).
Still zigzagging in time, we went on to the 13th century cathederal and climbed the 162 steps up the tower; luckily not meeting a soul either on the way or on the way down! Great views over the roof tops.
A cup of tea came next and your weary time travellers then set off to find the B and B. A warm welcome waited us and would you believe it, our room was called "Le Nid"? So, a home from home as many of you will know that's the name of our studio bedroom at the top of the house.
The G and T went down well and loosened us up to meet a load of folk we didn't know and weren't sure that we'd have anything in common with.
There were 10 of us around the dinner table with an ok (well, at least for one dinner) selection of guests. The host was an old charmer who kept the wine flowing and his wife witty and good at her job. Well, we don't have to kid ourselves; that's what it is, n'est-ce pas? http://www.domaine-soleil-couchant.com/
Weather:
24°, blue skies, sunshine

Mum and Maureen's Visit

12.11.14:
Our visitors' last full day and they wanted to take us for a "nice" lunch so we went to the "Ancienne École" which has been having really good reviews lately. www.ancienne-ecole.fr/ We've always liked it but of late, it's gone much more upmarket. Anyway, we weren't disappointed. After eating well, we continued down to the coast for a stroll along the prom at Argelès. Christian meantime had a wee snooze.
In the evening we abandoned Mum and Maureen to the telly as we'd been invited by Jean-Jacques to have dinner with his friends Alain and Dominique who are here for a few days. André and Nany were there too. My goodness, it was a serious meal. Canapés, Parmentier de Canard (a kind of duck "shepherd's pie"), salad, cheese and two desserts. It all sat very heavily on an already full stomach!
Weather:
20° Sunny
Headlines:
Warren Clarke, he of "Dalziel and Pascoe" fame, died aged 67. Dalziel was horribly non-pc but have to admit that we didn't miss an episode.

 11.11.14:

Armistice Day which started with a procession behind waving flags carried by old soldiers and a brass band. The solemn official stuff over, we all processed back to the Mairie for the inauguration of an exhibition about 1WW focussing on the village. The inauguration came with an apéritif which by the time we actually got to the table, was all but gone! Went up to the bar for a more relaxed one and then went home for a roast lunch which was much appreciated!!! 
Weather:
18°, windy and chilly

10.11.14:

Retraced the route that we'd taken recently with Nick and Lizzie. Stopped off at Can Xiquet for an apéritif and then went to Can Parra for a Mother style lunch. In the evening our visitors prefered to stay home while we went to a hommage to the Catalan soldiers of 1914. Readings from a diary, poems and music. It was all very moving and all the more interesing as the diary had been written by Nany's uncle. The Catalan regiment (which lost 53 men from the village) made contact with the British as early as the autumn of that year on the NE front.
Weather:
17° Sun, cloudy and windy  later

9.11.14:

Following a long established pattern, our visitors went off to Sunday mass and prayed for us. Can't hurt, can it? We, meantime slouched around over a leisurely bowl of poridge and the Sunday papers. Went over the border once we'd negotiated the traffic jam up to Le Perthus, which was surprisingly busy, to meet up with Michèle and Henri to have lunch overlooking the lake at Darnius. As the sun was shining, we ate on the terrace which livened up a rather uninteresting meal. Wasn't surprised, it was ever thus. The food's ordinary which is why I chose it so that Mum could get something that suited her. Still, the view compensated. Good old Christian he is so patient in his role of dutiful son-in-law.
Weather:
17° sun, cloudy and windy by the end of the afternoon.
 Headlines:

• 80% of the 2m Catalans who voted in the "unofficial referendum" voted "yes for Independance

• 25 years since the fall of the Berlin Wall

8.11.14:

Of course, a trip to the market was the order of the day. Christian and I went for a coffee while Mum and Maureen parted with a bit of cash. Michel joined us for lunch at home bringing a load of oysters with him. Mum and I passed on them but Maureen was game to try. A first for her. Not bad for 90 years old !
Weather:
19° sun but cloudy later




7.11.14:

Had a well deserved late start and went for lunch at the restaurant. Nothing much in the afternoon apart from making a ginger cake for this evening's neighbourhood get-together over soup and roast chestnuts. There were about 30 of us in the little square in front of the church and it was warm enough to stay out until about 9pm. Sadly, Jacques, who usually keeps Mum's glass topped up with muscat was not there but she found a replacement gallant in the shape of Michel who gave her the last rose of the year from the bush outside his house. Quite made her day and compensated  for Jacques' absence!
Weather:
18° sunny but cloudy later

6.11.14:

Mum's birthday today and it started well with a hearty breakfast served by the Chateleine then before leaving we took a stroll around part of the garden in warm sunshine. Drove up the splendid rugged coast, bypassing lloret de Mar to arrive in Tossa de Mar in time for a coffee and a leisurely stroll up through the old village. Well, at least Mum, Maureen and I did. The Med was blue, there weren't many people around and the day was ours to enjoy.
Then it was time to head inland and find somewhere for lunch. Fell across this place not too far south of Girona. Loads of character and an excellent menu to boot. https://ca-es.facebook.com/panolles Before heading for home, Christian had a snoozette while we went for a digestive walk through the woods behind the

restaurant.
Once home, the day wasn't finished for Christian as he had a full council meeting at the Mairie. Needless to say he was pretty tired after a full on day. Tomorrow we won't be leaving the village, that's for sure.
Weather:
17° but in the sun, it felt much warmer



5.11.14:
With Mum and Maureen arriving tonight and a dip in temperatures, it was time to change over our summer clothes for autumn/winter ones. Always a real chore but always a relief to get it done.
Rather than do a 4 hour trip to Barcelona  and back, we decided to do an overnght about 30 minutes from the airport. As it was Mum's birthday the next day, it served as a wee treat too. Found the place on the internet and it was rather grand. http://www.cancasadella.com/#!home/c1efj As, Christian said, if this was the family's  summer residence (built in 1791), goodness knows what their home was like way back when. Anyway, taking in paying guests to keep the family in the style to which they were acustumed is I suppose a usual story. Only problem was that Christian had to climb two flights of a steep staircase. We drank a bottle from the minibar and fell into bed.
Weather:
16° sun with the first snow on Canigou
Headlines:

• Republicans take the majority in the House of Representatives
• Manitas de Plata died aged 93

Last Day

David and Laura were also setting off after us to the south of England to go and visit their new granddaughter who arrived a month early . It was really kind of them not to tell us to make other arragements but that's what they're like. Today is the last but one leg of our trip and we had Glasgow in our sights. Kelvingrove Art Gallery had been another "must see" as they all wanted to see  Dali's "Cruxifiction". http://www.glasgowlife.org.uk/museums/Pages/home.aspx  But before that we stopped off at the "Famous Grouse Experience" near Crieff and while we didn't do the tour there was plenty to see in the visitor centre. The shop was spacious and well laid out and it was surprising how many different kinds of whisky they do, not taking into account the Glenturret malt. We'd already discovered "Black Grouse" in Ballachullish and found it lightly peaty and of good quality for a blended. http://www.thefamousgrouse.com/
We started the visit at the museum with a coffee and then went in our different directions There was also an organ recital and a temporary exhibition about the growth of Glasgow in the 18th century that Christian and I spent our time looking at before meeting Blair and Anne in the restaurant for lunch. While Christian took it easy in the afternoon I had a look around the MacIntosh collection and encouraged the others to do so on account of the Port Vendres connection. Well, not just that, he's synonomous with Glasgow and very talented.  http://www.port-vendres.com/page_ic.php?CatID=126&ArtID=160&them=4000

The sun was with us all the day until we were ensconced in "The Hollies" our B & B in Prestwick http://www.theholliesbb.com/  when there was an almighty thunderstorm but fortunately the rain was off when it was time to walk down to "The Dome", an old haunt of ours, to meet Colin and Sheila for dinner. http://www.dome-prestwick.co.uk/the-venue/about-scotts/ Once safely back, the rain came on again so our luck had held out until the very last. I can't believe that we were only bothered once by the rain and we'd had many sunny days to boot.

On the Monster Trail

It was cloudy when we set out but there was still plenty of scenery to see and admire when we took the road that goes along Loch Carron. The café in Achnasheen, a bit of a dreary place at the junction of two main roads, was closed so there was no point in hanging around. There was nothing in Garve either but not far outside we came across a cafe and take away all on it's own. A welcome sight indeed! Not far on from there we came to the carpark for the Rogie Falls, which I had delighted in when Christian and I visited by chance years and years ago. This time he wasn't fit enough to make the walk but the rest of us got a bit of much needed exercise. On the way back up we came across what I think was a slow worm. Harmles but still brought on an "ugh".

Going southward by now, we were passing through more populated areas and Beauly, which comes from the French  "Beaulieu or Beautiful Place" was busy. This small town with its priory established by monks from Burgundy in the 13th century, merits it's name. http://www.undiscoveredscotland.co.uk/beauly/beaulypriory/
Sadly, the deli that I'd earmarked for our lunch stop was full so we made do with the bar of the hotel. Not the most interesting of meals that we'd had but once again there weren't any complaints.
It was now time to head off for the long awaited visit to Drumnadrochit and Loch Ness. The whole place and the monster mythology is really a feat of  marketing. I had tried to sidestep a visit here and spend more time in the more picturesque North but the French weren't having it! Loch Ness was a "must see". Monster hats, postcards and souvenirs were bought and everyone was happy.

Thank goodness for the nearby Urquhart Castle which made a great photo stop. http://www.undiscoveredscotland.co.uk/drumnadrochit/urquhart/index.html   Next  we took the main road through to Inverness and for the first time hit traffic jams. By passed the site of the Battle of Culloden (1746) and Tomatin Distillery as after several days on the road we needed time at the end of the day for a wee rest .  Tonight's stopover was in Carrbridge where there is the lovely Packhorse Bridge" and apparently it's where the "World's Best Porridge Making Competition" is held annually! http://www.undiscoveredscotland.co.uk/carrbridge/carrbridge/index.html Our B & B, the "Mellon Patch" was set at the end of  Station Road among trees with lots of wildlife in the garden. It was a good job that I wasn't put off by its address when I was booking. http://www.mellonpatch.com/
Our landlady was a pleasant Glaswegian who made us welcome at  in her very comfortable home and allowed us to use one of the sitting rooms to have an apéritif before setting off for dinner in the Cairn Hotel. http://www.cairnhotel.co.uk/food_and_drink.html The dining room was busy but the service pleasant, the food good and Nany discovered the delights of "sticky toffee pudding" which will no doubt be on the menu chez elle before too long. Rounded off the evening with a nightcap and so to bed ...

Panoramic Views

The beginning of the Caledonian Canal was only 2 minutes from our B & B so the day started there with the added bonus of good views of Ben Nevis. The canal is 60 miles long with 29 locks that raise vessels to a height of 70' above sea level. http://www.undiscoveredscotland.co.uk/inverness/caledoniancanal/
Our next stop, The Commando Monument, just outside Spean Bridge set in the training grounds of 2WW elite soldiers, wasn't far either. Imposing scenery added gravitas to the solemnity of the place. More recent losses in Iraq and Afghanistan are remembered in the newly added memorial garden.
There was more highland scenery to delight our tourists on the road to the isolated Claunie Inn. Here we made a coffee stop, managing to resist sampling one of  the 200 whiskys in the bar, . http://www.cluanieinn.com/
Next came the Ratgan Pass where we made a photostop before we descended to Glenelg with it's famous Pictish brochs. The last time I was here, in the early 90s, it was cold and pourring with rain but today luck and the sun was with us http://www.lochalsh.co.uk/glenelg_broch.shtml
Packing in so much sightseeing is hungry work so we went back to Glenelg to the inn for a late lunch http://www.glenelg-inn.com/ and a bit of relaxation as there was more to see on our next leg of the journey.
The next stop was outside the iconic Eilean Donan Castle http://www.undiscoveredscotland.co.uk/dornie/eileandonancastle/index.html where we took lots of photos before Christian and Henri drove and the rest of us strolled along to Dornie Village for tea at the "Schoolhouse Tearoom and Art Gallery" http://www.highlands-info.co.uk/dornie/tearoom.html which is more gallery than tearoom but a friendly, laid back place for all that.
Ashgrove House, our B & B for the next two nights http://ashgrovebedandbreakfast.co.uk/ was just a few miles up the road in Balmacara Square opposite the pond. Somehow or other the landlady was expecting us for Wednesday and Thursday rather than Tuesday and Wednesday but once again luck was with us as she didn't have anyone booked in. Phew ...... my reputation as a 1st class tour guide  was on the line!

This evening we had to drive to find dinner and the obvious choice was to head into Plockton, made famoud as the TV set of "Hamish MacBeth" who was played by the very versatile Robert Carlyle. Plockton was busy and as there was music on at the Inn, we had to settle for the Plockton Hotel where though there was less atmosphere, we ate well.
And so, finally after a busy day, it was time for bed as tomorrow .we're off to Skye; not "over the sea" as Bonnie Prince Charlie did but by the bridge that started life as a toll bridge which later became a free passage due to the efforts of local protesters. Rebellion is definitely in the genes of the Scots!
Weather:
16.5°, sun

All Day Round Trip

We're a very disciplined group; no stragglers at breakfast time and ready for the off at the appointed time. Fortunately, last night's rain had passed over and we had a day of sunny spells which was great as there was more scenery to make you open your eyes wide with amazement. 
Set off for the Corran Ferry for the 5 minute crossing to Ardgour. The guy who took our money was an ardent independence supporter and left us in no doubt as to what he thought of the English. I just handed over the dosh and kept my mouth shut. On the way to Strontian , which means Point of the Fairies in Gaelic http://www.undiscoveredscotland.co.uk/strontian/strontian/index.html we stopped at a layby with a view over Loch Linnhe where we found some people seal watching. They were kind enough to point them out and lend us their binoculers. Climbed back into the "bus" and went on to Acharacle  for  coffee in a wholesome sort of tea shop. https://www.facebook.com/pages/Acharacle-Tea-Room/653017044745346?ref=stream Sadly, I missed the turn for the ruined Castle Tioram (pronounced Cheerum) http://www.moidart.org.uk/datasets/tioram.htm  but who ever heard of a tour guide sitting at the back of the bus ... yes,  positions had already been taken up! 
Scenery, scenery and more scenery until we reached Morar where the hotel was closed

but the views were splendid! http://www.undiscoveredscotland.co.uk/morar/morar/index.html André and I climbed up the 100+ steps to the iron cross for even better views over the Inner Hebredes. A couple of local residents, out enjoying the sunshine advised to go back to Arisaig for lunch rather than go into Mallaig.
As we continued on our way, cloud came in and when we arrived at Glenfinnan at 3.20pm, we were 20 minutes late for the steam train that crosses the viaduct there. If you're a "Harry Potter" fan and have seen the films you'll know what I'm talking about. Much to our delight (even though none of us are hooked on the wee fella), the train was 22 minutes late so we were able to snap away along with a whole host of other folk who were there for the same reason.
Glenfinnan, is however, more than just a film set; it was the place where Bonnie Prince Charlie raised his standard to start the ill-fated 1745 campaign to put his father back on the throne. http://www.undiscoveredscotland.co.uk/glenfinnan/glenfinnan/index.html  

Tea and a wander around the Scottish National Trust visitor centre was a must before we headed to Corpach and our overnight stay at Mansefield House run by two Australians who would just love to have a place in St Cyprien! http://www.scotland-info.co.uk/mansefield/ This didn't exactly correspond with their eco/ healthy outdoor sort of image but still, each to their own. We'd booked in for the evening meal but none of us was really able to do justice to it, Christian least of all. He's still having difficulty with stairs, feels nauseous and is even more bloated. He's nothing if not courageous doing the driving and keeping up with us but maybe it takes his mind of things, more likely, he doesn't want to let people down.  Anyway, whatever the reason, he's a real trooper!

 

Off to a Great Start

After a copious breakfast for the French contingent and a more reasonable one for us, we set off at 9.30am in the direction of the Erskine Bridge which spans the River Clyde. Built between 1967 - 71, it has about 15 suicides p.p. What a grim thought. from here it was on to Duck Bay Marina,
http://www.duckbay.co.uk/about-us/visit-loch-lomond  for a coffee stop overlooking knockout views of Loch Lomond made even better by bright sunshine.

·        Finally managed to get going again and continued for a short drive to Luss, a conservation village, where the STV soap « Take the High Road » was set. http://www.undiscoveredscotland.co.uk/luss/luss/index.html  Wound our way up the lochside to our next stop which was the "Drovers”  (pub of the year 1705 !), where we had lunch. http://www.tripadvisor.fr/Hotel_Review-g551929-d581625-Reviews-The_Drovers_Inn-Ardlui_Loch_Lomond_and_The_Trossachs_National_Park_Scotland.html Simple, rustic, lots of dust, staff in kilts and as the name would suggest, it was an inn for cattle drovers making their way down to Glasgow in the 18th century.

     Drove North through stunning scenery making a pause at the « Green Wellie Café » http://www.thegreenwellystop.co.uk/Restaurant/ in Tyndrum. http://www.undiscoveredscotland.co.uk/tyndrum/tyndrum/

Feasted our eyes on dramatic scenery as we crossed Rannoch Moor http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rannoch Moor and then through Glencoe which Henri and Michèle knew all about from their MacDonald daughter-in-law. We made quite a lengthy stop at the visitor centre where Christian and I drank hot chocolate (the sun had gone) and the others  immersed themselves in the exhibition.

http://www.undiscoveredscotland.co.uk/glencoe/visitorcentre/  

With all this sightseeing and driving, Ballachullish and our B & B stop at the Strathassynt http://www.strathassynt.com/ was most welcome, especially for Christian who has found himself in the role of sole chauffer. There was time however, for Michèle and I to nip to the supermarket  to buy apéritifs while the others slept. Had these before our evening meal in the Laroch Bar which was luckily across the road  so with a quick sprint we didn't get wet. http://www.tripadvisor.fr/Restaurant_Review-g315998-d1937780-Reviews Scottish_Highlands_Scotland.html

Let the Tour Commence!

Repacked our bags ready to move onto our next B&B; this time in Ayr. Before that we met Colin and Sheila for a good lunch at the Beresford finishing with a cuppa at their place. http://www.theberesfordayr.co.uk/restaurant.asp We couldn't linger, however, as we had to pick up our 9 seater VW and André, Nany, Michèle and Henri at Prestwick airport at 4.30pm. There was no time to loose as I wanted them to get out to the Burns Centre in Alloway before it closed. http://www.burnsmuseum.org.uk/ A rapid photo stop outside Burns Cottage, a beer at the centre and a quick look around the shop then it was off to the Auld Kirk and Brig o' Doon.

Our B&B tonight was the "Inverlea" http://www.inverlea.co.uk/ where there was a warm welcome, comfortable rooms  and tartan carpet throughout,  but before bed there was dinner to eat at "The Chestnuts" http://www.chestnutshotel.com/restaurant.php The food was good but it being a Saturday night and Ayr Show, it was busy and impersonal. Still we were able to catch up with June and Bill, neighbours of ours from our Ayrshire days, who joined us for something to eat and then Lynn when she came to collect them. A whisky in the bar rounded off the evening by which time we were all ready for a good night's sleep.