Wednesday 11 November 2015

On the Tourist Trail

If it hadn't been for the red and yellow leaved vines it would have been hard to believe that this trip took place in November. Haven't been so far from home for ages so it was good to get away for a couple of days.  Françoise is easy to be with, knowledgeable and good company but it should have been Christian I was sharing the experience with. The imaginery postcard I sent him went with the traditional phrase "having a good time, wish you were here!"
Click on the link if you're interested in seeing a few more photos.
https://picasaweb.google.com/114284735716067114333/WonderboxTrip#6216385568339283298

 11.11.15:
Armistice day but for once there was no ceremony for me (which apparently was noticed) instead Françoise and I spent the morning looking around Fontfroide, a Cistercian abbey. A "must-do" in the area.  http://www.fontfroide.com/
Decided to go for a late lunch by the sea and ended up at Peyriac sur Mer. Found a great bar full of character and we were lucky to get a table with all the tourists and locals off work for the public holiday thronging the place. http://www.tripadvisor.fr/Restaurant_Review-g1726269-d3467374-Reviews-O_Vieux_Tonneau-Peyriac_de_Mer_Aude_Languedoc_Roussillon.html#photos
The village overlooks an enclosed body of water with a number of small islands, a few flamingos and little wooden walkways that just shouted at you "come and walk". We therefore, joined a constant stream of inter-generational families out for a stroll and found a bench to sit on in the sun for a moment's contemplation.
Came home without stopping, arriving for 5pm. All the way back I was debatting with myself as to whether I'd go to the concert in the church or just dump my bags and flop. In the end, I opted for the concert of choral music which ranged from the Renaissance to the 20th century and spanned 3 continents. Glad I went and there was still time to flop.
Weather:
24° sunshine and blue skies

10.11.15:
After a copious, tasty breakfast at 8.30am, we took ourselves off to a Medieval village called http://www.lagrasse.com/en/index.php 
Lagrasse.
First of all a coffee stop as Françoise  has a a morning coffee habit too; this meant that we arrived at the tourist office just as it was opening. What a treat we had looking at amazing remenants of painted ceilings, some of them with quite irreverant images! Then a look around the church and a wander through the narrow streets stopping off to look at the 14th century market hall and at an upholsterer's shop. Not as strange as it sounds. Next to the workshop there was a couple of rooms stuffed with bric-a-brac and all sorts of curios including a series of ornaments of dressed up dogs (not sure how to describe them) that you'll see in the photo album if you click the link at the top of the page. There were also a couple of fat cats which I though that the taxidermist had been let loose on but no they were real. Gave me quite a start when they moved ever so slightly.
Our last port of call was the abbey (14th century), outside the town walls accessed by a 13th century bridge over the river. Well, there was no way that the Benedictine monks could be exposed to the local folk with their ungodly ways hence the stand alone site.
After all that we were lucky to get lunch on the tree lined promenade outside the walls on the otherside of the village before the chef went home. In need of a bit of rest we didn't linger prefering to get back and stretch out on a sun lounger in the garden and then saw one of the sunsets that give  the property its the name.
After a late lunch we weren't that hungry so just went out in the evening to a nearby village for a simple salad and then an early night.
Weather:
24° blue skies and sunshine

9.11.15:
Bag packed, apéritif organised complete with lemon for the G and T and things to nibble, coat on ready to go for 10am. The weather was absolutely splendid; warm golden autumnal sunshine and a clear road through to Narbonne. Started off at "Les Halles" (opened in 1901) which being a Monday most of the stalls were closed. Walked from there along the canal to the old part of the city. First looked at the shops and wandered around getting our bearings. As it was midday by this time and the museums were closed, there was nothing else to do but have lunch in "Le Mallocolo", which I'd spotted on "Tripadvisor". Small and decorated with souvenirs from the owners' travels with a menu to match, it was a great wee find. http://www.tripadvisor.fr/Restaurant_Review-g187155-d2337253-Reviews-Le_Mallicolo-Narbonne_Aude_Languedoc_Roussillon.html
Fortified by a good lunch, we attacked the Museum of Art and History housed in the 17th century Archbishops' appartments. Painted ceilings and various works of art  through the ages including Breughels and a collection of orientlal paintings in an arabic setting which was just delightful. Soft music, settees and the sound of a fountain created a real oasis of peace. All we were missing was the mint tea.
Next came a chronocologically backward trip to see the prehistoric and Roman collections (the Via Domitia runs through the city).
Still zigzagging in time, we went on to the 13th century cathederal and climbed the 162 steps up the tower; luckily not meeting a soul either on the way or on the way down! Great views over the roof tops.
A cup of tea came next and your weary time travellers then set off to find the B and B. A warm welcome waited us and would you believe it, our room was called "Le Nid"? So, a home from home as many of you will know that's the name of our studio bedroom at the top of the house.
The G and T went down well and loosened us up to meet a load of folk we didn't know and weren't sure that we'd have anything in common with.
There were 10 of us around the dinner table with an ok (well, at least for one dinner) selection of guests. The host was an old charmer who kept the wine flowing and his wife witty and good at her job. Well, we don't have to kid ourselves; that's what it is, n'est-ce pas? http://www.domaine-soleil-couchant.com/
Weather:
24°, blue skies, sunshine

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