Full On Day N°2

3.6.17: Two Faces of Norman History

Yes, you've guessed it, another early start. This time a 7h30 departure to Domfront. and it was a chilly one at that. Cloud and wind; this is more like what we'd expected weatherwise!
Our first stop was at the church Notre Dame sur l'eau (Our Lady on the water) built between the 11th and 12th centuries which true to its name was next to a river. There are still the remains of the public wash place to be seen. On a pilgrim route, apparently Eleanor of Aquitane (Henry II's wife) and Richard the Lionheart passed through here and stayed in the adjoining abbey which has since disappeared.
Next came a guided tour of the ruined château built by Henry I of England in the 12th century to replace a wooden edifice that had been built in 1010. Given the site's dominance over the surrounding area, it's easy to see why it was such an important strategic stronghold during territorial and religious wars.
In the town itself, there are narrow paved streets with evocative Medieval names, alleys and half timbered buildings protected by still existing ramparts. The Town Hall and Court House are altogether more solid bourgeois buildings and ironically enough, the latter is situated on la Place de la Liberté!
The church of St Julien, in contrast is a 20th century neo-byzantine concrete building with interesting Art Deco mosaics.  http://www.francethisway.com/places/domfront.php
Lunch was taken at the "Auberge du Grand Gousier" which was not as grand as yesterday's restaurant but it did have more character and the food was just as good. http://www.restaurant-grandgousier.com/en/auberge-de-charme.html

Our afternoon was occupied with a visit to Bagnoles de l'Orne, a smart spa town where the mineral waters are believed to be therapeutic for rheumatism, gynaecological and vein problems. It's a town that came to the fore in the "Belle Epoch" (1871 - 1914) with the advent of the railway. A guide took (some) us on a tour of the town, through the park down to the spa, then up to admire the large houses typical of the era and the Art Deco church of St Jean the Baptist which continues the water theme incorporating it into the stained glass windows and the outside facade. http://www.france-voyage.com/cities-towns/bagnoles-de-l-orne-normandie-23714.htm
Once we'd rejoined the shoppers/café goers, we headed back to Bretteville, another communal meal and another late night.
Weather:
Chilly and cloudy in the morning, a bit brighter and warmer in the afternoon